4l30e rebuild

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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Sat May 26, 2012 10:32 pm

yup, and it did the trick. it went in so easy i didn't realize it did. i will probably grab the other parts tomorrow and rebuild reverse and complete main case.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:39 am

slightly more progress today. haven't been able to get back to it for a week or so but I finally got the 24 springs and clip back in the reverse(i think) piston. I am obviously not heavy enough to compress the springs. I thought it was supposed to take 175lbs (i weight 190) and how I compressed it was by holding the housing and pulling myself into it. oops... back up

diy springs compression
2 pieces of wood on retaining plate with another piece of wood across the top creating a bridge. Lay on top of bridge and body weight compressed springs so the retaining clip can go into it groove. so seals are replaced, and now im stuck because i need a new thrust washer as mine broke and was sitting in the pan in pieces. i will post some more pics and progress later.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Wed Jun 06, 2012 1:54 am

AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!! so i get home from work (at 6am) and decide to go work on the trans some. I have a manual saved to my lab top, then forgot the lab top. so i tried to do what i could from memory. tried putting the overdrive case in the main case and it wouldnt go. i was very low on pj, and i think that was part of it. the other part is i had the main case sitting on 2 2x4s and i dont think that was enough height so the whole inside assy was coming up a bit so i couldn't push down. didnt realize that til after i left. also got out my pen torch and tried to "anneal" the roller pin. no, i didn't "anneal" it, I broke it. it made it brittle and now its flush with the housing. i think i will just leave it and have a shop replace the seal for me as i do not want to pay 25 for the special tool. it shouldnt be much i dont think. mucho frustrationo, but i will get it... eventually...
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby bradzuzu » Wed Jun 06, 2012 2:45 am

That sucks , hopefully it will be a cheap fix... Sorry man..
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby ravi261 » Wed Jun 06, 2012 2:51 am

Looks like you're making progress at least. Here's the link I mentioned (you might've found it already):

http://scottj.info/files/isuzu/4l30e.pdf

This one doesn't really help rebuild it, but it's has some really good diagrams and explanations of how things work:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/34145601/4L30E

Hope these might come in handy. Good Luck!

p.s. I have a trans collecting dust in the corner...I've been to scared to attempt rebuilding at this point in time.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 5:05 pm

so the trans is mostly built. still have to put the parts in the valve bodies, reseal pans and figure out how to get that damn shift shaft seal out. just concerned because the bellhousing to adapter case has a visible gap of a mm or 2. not sure if thats how it is supposed to be or maybe it was like that and i didn't notice because the trans was dirty and now its wire brushed. anyone know? if it is an error, i don't know how it got that way. everything seems to spin fine. i had to replace 2 thrust washers and do not have proper tools to determine end play but i don't think that would have caused an extended gap in the assembly. anyone know? sorry its been so long, i am crazy deep in school right now.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby bradzuzu » Fri Jul 13, 2012 5:28 pm

Not sure man.. I looked at the trany I have and the outer edge bevels.. It might be throwing you off, if it was shimming I'd think it would lock up to.. Is there a gasket ??
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby SurferJoe » Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:20 pm

Rhodes wrote:
blacktrooper89 wrote:i havent seen anything like this before. the pan actually drops down and widens about the bottom covering the whole bell housing. 3.2 appears to be a weird animal. love the 4 o2 sensors also. but to answer the question, yes there is a front cover, and i could probably manage to squeeze a wrench in between the pan and bell housing but it'd be hard and the cover hasnt come off yet. i am going to finish the pull now. do the clutch packs really have to be soaked in trans fluid overnight or is a few hours ok?



Overnight? Fifteen minutes is probably fine, or even not at all, though there are plenty of people who will tell you that the friction disks will glaze over if not properly soaked in tranny fluid. The thing is, if you run it in neutral for 8 or 10 minutes circulating fluid like you're supposed to before putting it in gear, the friction disks get plenty soaked without your additional help.


Old wive's tale - just put the clutches together dry --- they will get oiled fast enough by the time you get the unit filled and idling.

Why dry? So you can actually see what the clearances are. I've never presoaked clutched or bands in my life.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Sun Aug 12, 2012 6:26 am

hey guys, sorry to answer to late, my profile didnt let me know there was a response. i started putting it back together more. i got the shift to valve body reconnected, wiring harnesses are in, harness connector seals replaced. still cant replace shift shaft seal, still concerned with gap in between housings. i can see where it meets right where it seems most pertinent and to answer your question brad, it had huge o-rings. there is an o ring for each port that goes through the bottom and they are about the size of a half dollar piece, then there are ones on the adapter housing before and after. so between adapter and main case and between bell housing and adapter. im stumped. really dont wanna put this together wrong. lots of time and money wrapped into it. but i am plugging on. worse case scenario, it comes back out. really worse. i might sell it as is if that happened. starting to wish i'd just spent the money on a used trans from a junk yard but live and learn.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Sun Aug 12, 2012 6:27 am

also, once i get a chance ill take a pic
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby SurferJoe » Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:54 am

Get up some pixs - and stop trying to put the thing together until then and you actually get some responses.

Be aware though that without hands-on and my being there, this is very hard to diagnose on the internet. Pictures are paramount! Good pictures. Multiple pictures.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby [email protected] » Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:47 pm

So where are the pictures??
Go check out my thread- i threw a couple pics up for you, to show you how tight my tail and center sections fit.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:23 am

Pics are taken but not uploaded to pc yet. I wil do this in the morning but i am fairly certain everything is right. I will do one more check and if everything seems fine i will continue working. Once again pics coming soon.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Sat Aug 18, 2012 10:56 pm

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj5 ... 14/001.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj5 ... 2-Copy.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj5 ... 14/003.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj5 ... 14/004.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj5 ... 14/005.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj5 ... 14/006.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj5 ... 14/007.jpg

Here they are and like I said, they don't honestly look too bad. The input shaft seems to spin fine. If i'm not mistaken, the center shaft moves and the outer is fixed? If I'm wrong and both spin, I made a booboo somewhere. But I would really like to button this up. I kind of agree with brad, if there was a shimming issue, it wouldn't rotate right. Not being cocky here and its hard to sound open to help over text versus a belly to belly conversation. I am very open to suggestions and acknowledge that you are all here to help. I'm just so close, am out of school, and have had this thing for months thinking it was just a bad range motion sensor. Let me know what yall think. I can stall for time to wait for suggestions by working on cleaning up underneath and re soldering a few connections I broke while pulling the trans.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby [email protected] » Sun Aug 19, 2012 11:55 am

You now, all you have to do to make those pics display right in the post, is to put [img]and[/img] on each end of your pics' links. In fact, when you look at the pics in your photobucket account, it gives you an instantly copied img link that you just paste into the thread.

Such as:

Image

Ps- why do you have a ground wire running from your adapter case to your main case, thru the oil passage?
Mine didn't have that.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby bradzuzu » Sun Aug 19, 2012 1:31 pm

The outer shaft is fixed, it holds the stater inside the torque converter which directs the fluid through the center and drives the input shaft like a clutch disc... All the gaps look fine, it's just the beveling of the case halfs... And also the output shaft should spin easy one way and have resistance the other way because of the internal sprague bearing, it's what locks when you decelerate (let off the gas)
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:58 pm

Umm as far as the ground wire goes i am not sure. Im pretty sure it was like that when i pulled it apart i believe. But i have pics so i will review them before buttoning it up. About to get on it some now in fact.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby Buster28 » Sun Aug 19, 2012 5:15 pm

I am reasonably sure it is the ground return for the TCC solenoid, the PCM applies +12 to the other side of the solenoid to energize it. On 2000 and newer transmissions both sides of the TCC solenoid are connected to the PCM and the PCM provides a ground to energize the solenoid.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby [email protected] » Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:22 am

Well , mine's a 93 and doesn't have one.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby SurferJoe » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:34 pm

@ [email protected]:

Yours doesn't have TCC? Interesting. The 4L30 was specifically built as an OD/TCC unit from left over parts that sat on the shelves at GM so they could use them up instead of melting them back down. The 3L30 was a three-speed, and it too had TCC, just no OD.

So I am kinda interested in this one-of-a-kind unit you have. I've only built a few dozen of these but that was in years past; I can learn something new.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby [email protected] » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:52 pm

No, im saying that i dont have that ground wire leading between the main case and the adapter section.
In fact, i dont see it in any of the ATSG repair diagrams, or in the online rebuild pdf's.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby SurferJoe » Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:11 pm

The crimp looks pretty good if it was an add-on by some bench guy.

I have a crimper that will do that, but not many people do - so I'm going with OE/Factory design here.
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:09 pm

lol, yes it is definately oe. i wouldn't have modified anything, and the person who owned it before me obviously never changed the fluid let alone modified it. mine is a 96 if that makes a difference. by the way, just ordered that rear main seal so i have a little time before i can start putting it back in, how is your progress?
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby blacktrooper89 » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:37 pm

Image

yeap... pretty bad. new seal kit is in the mail from rock auto
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Re: 4l30e rebuild

Postby [email protected] » Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:35 pm

Yours actually looks better than mine did...

old
Image

New
Image
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