4L30E Transmission rebuild

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4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Skeeter256 » Fri Jun 19, 2020 5:54 pm

Hey all,

I am about to rebuild the transmission in my 2002 trooper as it's leaking somewhere in the bell housing and seeping out through the inspection plate. I have been able to find a lot of help on here with how to remove the transmission and such, how I need a zero offset 17mm wrench to remove the bolts on the flexplate, but I have also seen people mention that the 00-02 troopers had a different torque converter then the rodeo and such. My first question is where do I find the correct torque converter for my trooper? I've seen listings on Ebay, and one from Florida torque converters but I'm still unsure as to whether they would really work for my trooper.

Ebay Torque Converter

FTC Torque Converter

My second qeustions is are the rebuild kits from PA Cargo any good, Rockauto has some in stock and I'm looking at getting it from there.

Rebuild kit from rockauto

Last qeustion is, once I get the transmission out what should I use to clean it? one person mentioned carb cleaner and I didn't see any other recommendations. My plans so far are to drop the transmission using a transmission jack and following the instructions here, take it apart slowly on camera labeling everything that comes out and putting it in plastic bags, then slowly rebuilding it referencing the ATSG repair manual and the instruction manual made by Hans Verhoeven. I also have the isuzu service manual if I need more instuction on how to rebuild it. I'm planning on using a deluxe rebuild kit, replaicing all the shift solinoids, and replacing the torque converter, as it has been shifting weird the past few months anyway. I'm a college student and the summer is really the only time I'll have to do any major repairs before school as repairing this myself at school wouyldn't be an option.

Thanks for any help you can give, I'll probably have more questions once I get the transmission out.
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Re: 4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Buster28 » Sun Jun 21, 2020 4:53 am

Skeeter256 wrote:Hey all,

I am about to rebuild the transmission in my 2002 trooper as it's leaking somewhere in the bell housing and seeping out through the inspection plate. I have been able to find a lot of help on here with how to remove the transmission and such, how I need a zero offset 17mm wrench to remove the bolts on the flexplate, but I have also seen people mention that the 00-02 troopers had a different torque converter then the rodeo and such. My first question is where do I find the correct torque converter for my trooper? I've seen listings on Ebay, and one from Florida torque converters but I'm still unsure as to whether they would really work for my trooper.

Ebay Torque Converter

FTC Torque Converter

This link provides info about PWM Torque Converters
https://www.transtar1.com/TranstarIndus ... TC-035.pdf
This link also provides info on the clutch material used in PWM torque converters.
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/2 ... n-material
00-02 Troopers have a PWM controlled Torque Converter installed so the clutch needs to be woven carbon.
The eBay listing for the FTC 54-40 Torque Converter indicates it has a woven carbon clutch friction.
Skeeter256 wrote:My second qeustions is are the rebuild kits from PA Cargo any good, Rockauto has some in stock and I'm looking at getting it from there.

Parts Authority sells name brand transmission parts.
01 Rodeo Sport 4X4 3.2L V6
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Re: 4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Skeeter256 » Sun Jun 21, 2020 5:25 pm

Thanks, Buster.

Time to order parts.
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Re: 4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Skeeter256 » Tue Jun 30, 2020 9:21 pm

Ok, I’ve gotten the trans out and was dissembling it when I noticed that the drums the clutch plates go on are slightly deformed. Does this mean I need to find replacements?

Imgur link

Sorry, I couldn’t get it to display my pictures in post.
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Re: 4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Oro » Tue Jun 30, 2020 9:51 pm

Mine were like that, too. Maybe not quite as bad. Jerry told me to just dress them with a file to clean it up and then go along my merry way.

Remember to flush out your cooler if you had bad debris inside the unit. Lubegard makes "Kooler Kleen" that does that; I just improvised with compressed air and gasoline sprayed through.

Note that the ATSG manual does not show the correct disc/plate order for most baskets; use your notes or pics and not the manual - it pictures earlier versions.

While you have your trans out, a new rear main seal is not a bad idea. I would also strongly recommend taking care of the cats at the same time while they are out. PM me about that. I added a temp gauge and aux cooler, which have made me confident ever since (neither is difficult or very expensive). Another suggestion, is that while you have the transmission out: it is easy to retro-fit a dipstick for future convenience. The PA kit likely came with the necessary gasket once you drill the hole. Just get a take-off tube/stick from a wrecker or possibly someone on the list here.
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Home rebuilt 4L30E doing great. Aux cooler and temp gauge. Big thanks on the rebuild to Buster28, Jerry (jlemond), CalG, and others.
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Re: 4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Skeeter256 » Tue Jun 30, 2020 11:44 pm

Thanks for the reply.

All the transmission fluid is brown and has a burnt small to it so definitely going to have to flush everything. It doesn’t appear any of the non metal clutch plates are degraded though.

You mention a new rear main seal, is that on the engine or the transmission? Also what do by you mean by taking care of the cats? I’m in New England so I don’t believe it’s going to need an extra trans cooler.

On a side note some of the plastic tabs on the electrical harness broke trying to remove it. Does anyone know a good source of these? I would need both and the plug for the overdrive wiring harness.
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Re: 4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Oro » Wed Jul 01, 2020 12:49 am

If your friction discs did not burn up and throw disc material everywhere, then I would just run a hose up from the cooler and pour clean atf through it until it runs clear out the other end; no need to get extreme with a commercial product or solvent flushing.

The rear main seal is on the engine crankshaft, underneath the flexplate. If it ever leaks, you have to remove the transmission to change it. It's like $4. Examine the steel discs for areas of heat tempering/spot hardening. If you had enough temp to burn fluid, or to tear up discs, then that may have happened. Most of my 3rd clutch steels showed discoloration in spots indicative of that, so I changed them. It's a case-by-case thing.

As to the cooler, your summers are much hotter than mine, and I still value my cooler for keeping my truck's fluid temps down. Up to you, but they are cheap and it's good insurance. It will add about 25 minutes to the re-install time - easy to do with the system disconnected.

Cats for these are hard to find (there appear to be no direct-fit aftermarket ones at all), and install. They won't last a whole lot longer unless you have really low miles on your truck. PM me and I can mention options.
1998 Acura SLX. OME 929s and front crank, KYB tubes. Retro'd Aisin manual front hubs.
Home rebuilt 4L30E doing great. Aux cooler and temp gauge. Big thanks on the rebuild to Buster28, Jerry (jlemond), CalG, and others.
Factory(US dealer) side steps and roof/ski rack (Yakima).
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Re: 4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Skeeter256 » Fri Jul 03, 2020 12:36 pm

Hey all,

I’m currently assembling everything and I’m having trouble installing the overdrive housing. The old thrust washer didn’t have any plastic legs but is black/dark green in color. I bought a set of thrust washers of a bunch of different colors and tried using the black one to see how it fits. It prevents the overdrive housing from mating with the main housing with a 5 mm gap between the two. Is this a problem with the thrust washers I bought or did something not get installed correctly? I removed the thrust washer completely and it mated pretty closely. The old thrust washer would reduce this gap, should I reuse it?
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Re: 4L30E Transmission rebuild

Postby Oro » Sat Jul 04, 2020 1:55 am

I would mount it up with the old thrust washer and check the end play. You can get reasonably accurate with a good set of calipers vs. the factory Rube Goldberg device.

When I rebuilt mine, I couldn't find a thrust washer kit. Recently I saw them more readily available on Ebay and elsewhere. Mine was slightly out of spec but I went with it, no harm so far. ;)

Did you find the work-around to cross-cut the OD housing bolts and use the tc as the fitting jig? IIRC, I bookmarked a youtube video on that on a Ford transmission...

Ah, here it is! This is important to get this correct.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-L71-udS_g&app=desktop

Since the bolts thread the other way, take a dremel and cross-cut the ends, then you can cinch them up with a screwdriver, since you can't get at the bolt heads.

If the background music in that video sounds familiar but indistinct, it's this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjSZs_uOWxg

(humor)
1998 Acura SLX. OME 929s and front crank, KYB tubes. Retro'd Aisin manual front hubs.
Home rebuilt 4L30E doing great. Aux cooler and temp gauge. Big thanks on the rebuild to Buster28, Jerry (jlemond), CalG, and others.
Factory(US dealer) side steps and roof/ski rack (Yakima).
Oro
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