I couldn't find a write up on how to do this install. I think it's way past time to do so. I'll do all the work and take the photos with help from people on here. I'll change the thread up as I go in order to have all the steps be in the correct order. I'm going to start the how-to with the transfer case already removed from the transmission and on a work bench. I got stuck pretty quick, so I'll post what I have for now and see if I can get some help from members here when I need.
Let's go!
With the transfer case out and drained, make sure you clean up the outside to prevent stuff from falling in once you open it. I used various brass wire brushes and a pick here and there to dig rocks and dirt out of hard to reach places. I kept my vacuum near by to keep the dirt pile to a low roar as I went along and found stuff I had missed on prior passes. I'll post the Indy4x instructions in italics.
Starting at step 5 of the install instructions provided by Independent4x, remove the four 12mm bolts on the low shift unit and remove. I tried to separate the case first, and had difficulty removing this as the case was preventing the ball from coming out. After taping the case with a soft hammer it vibrated out. Shouldn't be a problem if you do this step before pulling the case apart.
Next remove the 9 bolts and the 2 stud bolts from the house. NOTE! Mark the location where the 2 stud bolts were removed for later assembly. I used grease paint. If you forget, they are at the bottom, on either side of the drain plug. It starts to separate a bit on it's own and you can get a small pry tool in to help it along.
Remove the high-low speed ball detent unit. (This is a 3/4" hex fitting (19mm) that is located on the outside of the housing inline with the shift rail shaft. Remove the hex fitting, spring and ball. DO NOT leave the ball in the hole, as it will fall into the rail shaft hole when the shaft is removed. The yellow arrow indicates the correct detent. I removed both and the bolts, springs, and balls are identical.
Use a magnet to remove the spring and the ball. Any magnet (or a pick) will work for the spring, but you'll need a small enough magnet to fit down the hole for the ball. Pretty sure this is just some cheap one I picked up from Harbor Freight or whatever auto parts store.
Pry the housing apart. NOTE! The 2 locating dowel pins and all the internal shafts (expect the rear wheel drive shaft) stay with the front half of the housing.
This is where I'm stuck now. The case doesn't want to come apart any further, and I'm reluctant to keep prying. I've looked at other instructions on other boards and don't see anything about removing the drive shaft flanges.
Do I need to do this? What could be holding this together? Does it just need more gentle coercing?
That's all for tonight. Let's get all hands on deck and we can make a detailed thread together.
Let's go!
With the transfer case out and drained, make sure you clean up the outside to prevent stuff from falling in once you open it. I used various brass wire brushes and a pick here and there to dig rocks and dirt out of hard to reach places. I kept my vacuum near by to keep the dirt pile to a low roar as I went along and found stuff I had missed on prior passes. I'll post the Indy4x instructions in italics.
Starting at step 5 of the install instructions provided by Independent4x, remove the four 12mm bolts on the low shift unit and remove. I tried to separate the case first, and had difficulty removing this as the case was preventing the ball from coming out. After taping the case with a soft hammer it vibrated out. Shouldn't be a problem if you do this step before pulling the case apart.
Next remove the 9 bolts and the 2 stud bolts from the house. NOTE! Mark the location where the 2 stud bolts were removed for later assembly. I used grease paint. If you forget, they are at the bottom, on either side of the drain plug. It starts to separate a bit on it's own and you can get a small pry tool in to help it along.
Remove the high-low speed ball detent unit. (This is a 3/4" hex fitting (19mm) that is located on the outside of the housing inline with the shift rail shaft. Remove the hex fitting, spring and ball. DO NOT leave the ball in the hole, as it will fall into the rail shaft hole when the shaft is removed. The yellow arrow indicates the correct detent. I removed both and the bolts, springs, and balls are identical.
Use a magnet to remove the spring and the ball. Any magnet (or a pick) will work for the spring, but you'll need a small enough magnet to fit down the hole for the ball. Pretty sure this is just some cheap one I picked up from Harbor Freight or whatever auto parts store.
Pry the housing apart. NOTE! The 2 locating dowel pins and all the internal shafts (expect the rear wheel drive shaft) stay with the front half of the housing.
This is where I'm stuck now. The case doesn't want to come apart any further, and I'm reluctant to keep prying. I've looked at other instructions on other boards and don't see anything about removing the drive shaft flanges.
Do I need to do this? What could be holding this together? Does it just need more gentle coercing?
That's all for tonight. Let's get all hands on deck and we can make a detailed thread together.