I decided a few months ago that the expanded metal floor of the roof rack was just too noisy. So I thought I'd bed line it and re-install it.

Once I got it down I removed the expanded metal and gave the floor 3 good coats of bed liner and a couple for the mounting rails and contacts for further sound dampening and rust protection.
I wanted to add some lighting to the rack as well.

Sorry for the crappy photo. I mounted 4 LED pencil beam pods on the front, one flood to each side and one to the rear. These are the middle of the road quality lights from a supplier here in the US. I have plans later on to upgrade the drivers and LEDs to a better quality and output. I was really going for the housings when I bought these. The upgrade is WAY cheaper than the cost of some from say Rigid or the like. I can go from about 2000 lumen (exaggerated manufacturer claim I am sure, probably about 1200 realistically) to about 3500 each pod for less than $20.00 when I get ready to do it. Anyway, I wired them up and stuck the rack back up.


Tortuga has no rear wiper, but had a rear wiper reservoir bracket. This became the lighting relay bracket.

I ran a 2 gauge wire from the engine compartment to the back to supply power to the lights an auxiliary power port and inverter (later install).
To get power from the relays to the roof rack I thought long and hard about it. I didn't want wires crimped in door jambs and didnt want a hole in the roof with a glob of silicone around it. I also wanted the ability to unplug it if I wanted the roof rack off. So I wired it with a 6 pin trailer wire plug. This part was a real tough one. This is one of those things you dont get a second chance on. You don't come back well from a screw up with a hole in the roof line. So with reckless abandon, I cut the hole.



You can see in the last photo the pigtail and receiver. Hopefully it is compact enough to not grab stray branches and get snagged. It sits well above the drip rail so it shouldn't have water pooling around it. I also treated the cut metal with Rust Bullet and then used silicone to seal it from any water entry. I has a bit of extra wire on the pigtail side to allow me to move the rack forward if I want, but I kinda like it where it is. Also the hole cutting was not without a surprise or two. The rear roof structure has three layers. The outer skin, a curved support piece and the inside skin. So anyone thinking of doing this you have a heads up. I was kind of blind going in. It isnt a big fat hairy deal but it is something to consider. I had originally intended to run the wires through the back pillar post, but that is a no go. It is not hollow or have a hole from the pillar to the roof. So I ran the wires neatly along the inside of the interior, outside the pillar to the panel on the back where the wires will feed into the cavity.
I then turned to the job of setting up the switches. I added the door mounted cup holders awhile back and decided the console was the ideal spot for the switches.

The switches are aligned according to the light it activates.
Power to the switches is supplied through a dedicated ignition source power wire. This power also feeds my front and rear console power ports.
So there it is. I hope to do a short video, or pics at least of the lights in action soon.
Thanks for looking!