Storms a 'comin! Project Thunderbolt returns (with pics)

[giusedtobe]

As for the O-ring, I went to NAPA and they just tried a few random ones from their kit until we found one that fit. Couple bucks.

On the head, a lot of the new manufactured heads do not have the holes for the smog pump. I deleted mine since we do not have emissions tests here but if you have to have it you will need a new head or have a machine shop drill and tap the holes.

My head came from Clearwater and frankly I never asked about that so was just lucky as I planned to eliminate the smog stuff anyway.

[BoiseTrooper]

Thank you gentlemen. I figured it was something like that.

Not sure if this is a california car. The only sticker on the ECM box says "FED"

Regardless, I think I will follow what you guys have done and just eliminate the smog pump and metal rail and get a new catalytic converter. Where I live, there is no dyno or inspection. The only emissions tests are the sniffer probes in the tail pipe.

I really appreciate the help.

[BoiseTrooper]

Quick question. I found these two in the gasket engine set. Not sure what they are for.

I would hate to leave out something necessary.

Anyone recognize these?

Thanks much.

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[hessmess]

The first one is an oil seal, probably front or rear crank, maybe front cam. Your engine builder already put those in. The last one was an exhaust for I think a Honda. I have thrown several of those away

[BoiseTrooper]

The first one is an oil seal, probably front or rear crank, maybe front cam. Your engine builder already put those in. The last one was an exhaust for I think a Honda. I have thrown several of those away

Thanks Dick. You have an uncanny ability to put someone's mind at ease with just a few sentences.

[BoiseTrooper]

So the Haynes manual says to use sealant with the rocker cover on the cover-to-head surface, especially in the bolt holes. Posts from long timers on here range from none to just using it under the half moon rubber piece at the back.

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On the large aluminum crank cover shell, a previous repair had used orange rtv and no gasket.

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Any opinions or experiences? Yea or nay?

Just thought I would check.

Thanks in advance.

[aidan7777]

I've heard JLEMOND say those gaskets are for the 2wd oilpans and will leak if you put them on a trooper pan. He reckons RTV is the way to go with these things, and that's what i did with mine.

No leaks so far, only had trouble with the stupid gasket on my lower pan not sealing up right. probably because it's warped a bit or something.

[hessmess]

On the valve cover, I used RTV in the rubber plug and just a dab on the front in the corners where it goes over the cam seal. On the oil pan my kit didn’t have a gasket. Used a RTV instead, never leaked.

[BoiseTrooper]

You fellas want to see something crazy? The viewpoint is the block laying on it's side looking at the crankshaft.

I noticed these two bolts when I took the crank cover off. The crazy part is I never touched them. They were that loose on their own.

Yikes. But it ran great. I know that doesn't make sense, but it did. And the new crate motor doesn't have them. Any idea what they are for?

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[giusedtobe]

Never noticed that odd bolt on mine but maybe it was there.

The green seal thing I had the same question. Like Dick said it doesn't apply to your motor.

For the valve cover I put RTV under the little half moon and between the half moon and valve cover and then over the hump where the camshaft connects to the sprocket. I've had no leaks so far.

Oil pan I had a gasket like yours which was a one piece rubber and it did not fit at all. I also had two little rubber half moons that fit in the groove where the crankshaft lies. I used a liberal amount of RTV on both sides of this little half moon and also a liberal amount on the oil pan itself.

Another problem I had was my gasket for the little top hat oil pan was not the right shape so I had to cut part off and reposition it. I used liberal RTV here as well.

Good Luck

[BoiseTrooper]

Oof. I gotta stop working so late. I came out this morning and realized those bolts hold on the oil pickup tube. Sheesh.

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Thanks for rolling with me fellas.

[hessmess]

Oh man, that is funny. At least it didn’t keep you up all night! Or did it?

[BoiseTrooper]

Well, this is frustrating.

I had a socket wrench on the oil pickup tube bolt and caught my foot on an air hose. Stumbled, grabbed the wrench and twisted the bolt for the pickup tube right off into the crank. And it broke on the tightening in, not the loosening out. I am worried about getting it out of there. Holy crap.

Anyone have any suggestions or amazing broken bolt removal ideas? I guess I will try a fluted extractor tomorrow.

Oof.

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[giusedtobe]

Wow that looks like something I would do! Not much experience with removing sheared off bolts.

Good Luck

[BoiseTrooper]

No worse feeling.

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No better feeling.

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I took it over to my Dad's workbench. He has a much nicer drill press and I wanted to be able to clamp the cap to drill a good hole in the bolt. Seeing it starting to turn out is a giant exhale. Whew.

[hessmess]

I had missed this, glad it worked out. I have twisted a few off myself, last one was the bolt holding the vibration dampener on. It’s still there, the engine isn’t. Yes the one in the crank.

[BoiseTrooper]

Making progress and of course have some questions.

I have the engine pretty much put together. Just waiting on a couple iTec hoses from Jerry to finish it up. It will never be easier to get at those hoses than it is right now. It is going to get a new EGR. I also replaced the coolant temp sender and sensor. New igniter too.

Just trying to turn back the clock on older parts. The new ground straps came in. I wanted to change them while I had easy access to them.

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While I am waiting on parts, I thought I would get the tires going. I was originally going to go with the 31x10.5 like I have seen on many fella's rigs. They look great. But I only have the 15x6 steel wheels (and I have 9 of them ) Dick Hess had stopped by to check out the project and clued me in to the fact that the thin wheels might be too thin for 10.5's. So I ordered 30 x 9.5 BFGs. I plan on some road trips this summer in Thunderbolt and thought they would have better on-road manners.

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When I pulled the wheels off, I noticed the studs are chowdered. Two of them are actually chewed to a taper. On the other side, the rotor is deeply gouged. So it looks like now I am going to have to get into a brake rebuild. It never ends sometimes. I just want to drive this dang thing. But I also want it to stop. There is no way to get those studs out without removing the hub is there? And then does it become a situation where you might as well replace the wheel bearings too? Project creeping...

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Before I order all new brake parts, I thought this might be a good time for the big brake upgrade. I have read a couple threads on it. It seems the trick is to just take everything you see from an older Rodeo? Is that right? I think the UPS guy thinks I am keeping RockAuto in business by myself. Would appreciate a little direction here. The junk yards have a couple 92 Rodeos, a 95 Rodeo and a couple 98 Rodeos. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance.

[giusedtobe]

Wow I'm glad you are documenting this. I have all my wheels off for brake work too. Mine are standard and seemed to stop just fine before the failure so I'm not sure the upgrade is needed but others can chime in. I do need a few new studs as well and probably should change them all. Will be watching for pics or your tires as I need new ones and have the standard steel wheels as well.

BTW super jealous of the lift!

[itsmehb]

On the brake upgrade, which I have not done, only researched it. If I remember correctly, the Rodeo must be a V6 and not the 4. I went to a junk yard a few years ago and the used rotors were not much cheaper than new ones. If I ever get around to doing mine, I'll probably just get the backing plates and caliper brackets used, and get the rest new from say, Rockauto.

[hessmess]

Looking at the pictures, I am concerned about the lugnuts you show. They are not the right kind for your wheels, where is the taper? The only reason this jumps out at me is I took some wheels off a Mitsubishi and it took those kind of lugnuts, stock trooper nuts were not right.
I have never done the big brake either but have looked at it some time ago, I may even of obtained the parts but never installed. I would have to agree with the others. I would go ahead and get the backing plates from the Rodeo and then order calipers and rotors and brakes new.
Wheel bearings, I would just clean and inspect and then repack. If one shows some damage then of course replace. Look at the rubber brake lines too, replace if cracked.
Keep up on the great work and documentation, sure enjoyed visiting with you.
Dick

[BoiseTrooper]

Wow I'm glad you are documenting this. I have all my wheels off for brake work too. Mine are standard and seemed to stop just fine before the failure so I'm not sure the upgrade is needed but others can chime in. I do need a few new studs as well and probably should change them all. Will be watching for pics or your tires as I need new ones and have the standard steel wheels as well.

BTW super jealous of the lift!

Thanks bud. I like the lift. I wish I had it when I was younger. One nice thing about this one is it is designed to moved out of the way when painting or what not. It will come with me to the new shop wherever that may be.

[BoiseTrooper]

Looking at the pictures, I am concerned about the lugnuts you show. They are not the right kind for your wheels, where is the taper? The only reason this jumps out at me is I took some wheels off a Mitsubishi and it took those kind of lugnuts, stock trooper nuts were not right.
I have never done the big brake either but have looked at it some time ago, I may even of obtained the parts but never installed. I would have to agree with the others. I would go ahead and get the backing plates from the Rodeo and then order calipers and rotors and brakes new.
Wheel bearings, I would just clean and inspect and then repack. If one shows some damage then of course replace. Look at the rubber brake lines too, replace if cracked.
Keep up on the great work and documentation, sure enjoyed visiting with you.
Dick

Hi Dick,
Great seeing you too. Here is another pic of those ruined studs.

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I have a couple new ones from Raybestos, but I didn't plan on replacing all of them. This is what RockAuto had. Guess I will have to order more.

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These were the lugnuts on there. They have a taper, but are nothing special. Probably should replace the whole bunch, eh?

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[BoiseTrooper]

Ha. Do you think cobwebs are nature's way of saying you should rebuild the brakes?

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