Need to pull my intake and clean it...advice please !!

[bradzuzu]

Any short cuts for the fuel rail or anything ?? Probly unbolt the butterfly assembly and leave it because if the water hoses .... Egr can stay connected ?? Also thinking of doing the porting at the same time. My 2000 amigo 3.2...

[bradzuzu]

I did a little test with sea foam today as well. I pulled the brake booster hose and let it suck some in there, and then the small port up top on the manifold and then through the egr valve. After doing it and a quick drive I pulled the intake hose off to see if it was any better but not really. It smoked and chugged and missed and died a few times. Considering those are about the only vacuum points available you would never be able to clean the whole thing equally. When I pull the intake it will be a good comparison of what got cleaned or worst case what washed where it shouldn't have...

[vanduker]

Use PCV valve - is far more central than the ports you used. That said I do not believe any port is likely to make it noticeably cleaner inside.

[Dae]

You can pull the whole intake off with the fuel rail still on. Just disconnect both fuel hoses, but they are a PITA to put back on because of the spring clamps.
The EGR pipe has to be unbolted from the intake. You can keep the upper intake plenum bolted to the lower half. Throttle body can stay on if you just remove the coolant hoses.

There are also two bolts that hold the fuel line bracket to the back of the intake. Its a huge PITA to remove and reinstall because of clearance.
Some have loosened the engine mounts to push the engine forward a little. Im sure you'll figure it out.

Dont mess with the FPR bracket if you're just going to remove the whole intake anyway. It uses two allen bolts to mount it and the rear one is a PITA to get.
I would replace them with regular hex bolts. And lastly use the "revised" torque specs when you torque the intake back down. The old ones cause the gaskets to crack.

[bradzuzu]

I ment to say PVC not the egr, whoops !! I probly need to separate the two plenums to get it all cleaned up. If I pull the fuel rail up and towards the drivers side will it fold out if the way ???
I'm gonna use felpro gaskets. What's the torque about 18ft lbs ??

[bradzuzu]

Thanks for the info and help guys !!

[Dae]

Im not sure if you can fold the fuel rail out of the way. The hoses don't have much slack to begin with.
I never tried doing it that way, because I didn't want to do any damage to the injector nozzles, if it were to hit something.

Youd also have to remove the bolts for the fuel bracket anyways, so at that point you're half way there.
I would suggest replacing the two rubber coolant hoses that go under the intake, the thermostat, and maybe the o-ring/rings behind the Water manifold.
Just because you'll probably kick yourself if those were to go out and youd have to remove the intake all over again just to replace some $5 parts. Its not that fun of a job.

Here is a thread with some good pics to help you get an idea of whats under there. Note the fuel bracket in the back.
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=6640

[Dae]

Oh yeah... And you're close on the old torque specs. It was 17ft lbs. Then revised to 13ft lbs.

[CatFuzz]

I would pull the upper and lower together and separate them on the bench. Also, I would think the original torque spec would be just fine with the Felpro gaskets. They are not plastic crap like original.

[bradzuzu]

Ok I figured on pulling the whole intake in one piece , unless it gives any advantage of access in the rear ?? To bad they didn't make the fuel rail mounts vertical. Atleast then you could pull the top portion of the intake off. I will plan on replacing all the O rings on the piping then. I bypassed the water hoses on my 2.6's butterfly assembly... Would it hurt to do that on the 3.2 ??? Everyone does the cold air intake anyway... If it's a nescisary cross over then I won't. Does the egr tube gasket come in the felpro kit ? Or do I need to order that seperate ?? Inj O rings ???

[bradzuzu]

I guess I'll test any short cut theories of the fuel rail removal clause... Zip tie it back towards the hood maybe even...

[bradzuzu]

This is one of those moments when you don't like what you see !!!







I'm really really hoping I find that screw in the bottom of the intake !!!

[bradzuzu]

Success !!! It helped to remove the top manifold, then get to the back bolts. I pulled the bottom section of the intake up and forward to get better access to that bottom fuel line bracket bolt. Then it lifted out and around the fuel rail assembly. I can't find the dam screw !!!





Piece of crap plastic gaskets fo sure !!!
That screw couldn't have gotten sucked into the valves could it ??? Long runners to pull it up through...

[bradzuzu]

I found the screw baried invent back of the lower intake. It's like charcoal haven in there.

[bradzuzu]

Pipes unplugged for there new O rings, and access to the therm.


A good pic of the thermostat location... Nicely buried by the intake manifold !!!



Finished up the water works and went to town porting. It makes an extremely nasty mess !!





The porting on the lower half and showing how flexible the fuel rail is... I even put the upper fuel bracket bolt back in. Not a chance I want to put the lower one back in. It a prick bitch !!



Three or four cans of brake clean later it's nice and shinie again !!
I checked the rest of the screws on all the butterfly's a few more where loose...



All back together and somewhat cleaner. Took about 4-1/2 hours to get it all done.
Time to see how she runs now !!!

[Dae]

Someone was busy. Looks good! Nice and clean. and good job in finding that screw.

[bradzuzu]

Thanks Dae !!! It is smoother now !!! I think the little bit of porting/polishing helped. The upper O ring looked like it had been seeping a bit to, so good call on r&r ing that stuff. I also did the therm and it looked like it was just starting to break down. The new one is all metal and a little shorter, but still has that funky tang at the bottom of it. I think the heater even works better.

[littlegray]

You're lucky to find that screw! Nice work. The 3.5L DOHC Mitsubishi motor has those butterfly valves too. Many people either replace the intake or remove the valves to do the screws falling out and ruining the motor. I'd make sure those have locktite on them.

[Selahdoor]

Wow !

Most excellent work and results !

[bradzuzu]

I lock tighted the really loose ones. I checked the rest, but like usual was on a time crunch and had to get to assembling. I think on the isuzus the likely hood of the screws getting sucked into the cylinders is nil... But never say never !!! Thanks LittleGray and Seledor !!! Next I want to figure out a catch can for the PVC system and try to eleminate the oil residue build up.
Crash sent me a pic of his but I lost it or somethin. My brother had a montero and his engine blew up from the butterfly's dropping a screw down into the engine. He forked out atleast a couple thou to have it fixed !!!

[littlegray]

I've seen the 3.4L 4runner guys do PCV oil catchers. You might search on that. I read some stuff on Yotatech about that. I never ended up doing it on my 99 4runner just cleaned with sea foam every oil change. Mine was supercharged so it probably really pushed any oil through. HAHA

[bradzuzu]

Thanks Peter I'll look into that !!! Super charged even !!! You spent some money Z's on that truck !!!

[jeffmyers]

Hey nice job. I have been wanting to try this. Did you get a MPG boost?

[bradzuzu]

I can't say that it help for mileage but it did run smoother after doing the port work.. Getting to those rear fuel line bracket bolts isn't fun by any means ...

[jeffmyers]

I can't say that it help for mileage but it did run smoother after doing the port work.. Getting to those rear fuel line bracket bolts isn't fun by any means ...

Cool thanks!