by Ed Mc. » Thu Jan 21, 2021 10:08 pm
The aluminum upper oil pan should be installed when you reinstall the engine. Otherwise it's gonna be really difficult, if not impossible, to install it with the engine in place.
The steel small "top hat" pan on the bottom is the one I had trouble with when I pulled the 2.3 out of my 1st Trooper, an '86 4-door. I had to pull the small pan to clear the cross-member. Just put a ziplock bag or other suitable protection over the oil pickup screen and this should keep it relatively safe while you're installing. I can't recall the configuration of the '86's cross-member/diff brackets, but you may gain some space by undoing or dropping said parts, if possible.
BTW I don't know if you've seen other threads comment on this, but if you install the block 1st without the head installed, it's a ton easier to get in place and to get the upper bell housing bolts installed. Cover the top of the block with foil, plastic wrap, cardboard, etc to keep debris out of the pistons and the oil/coolant passages.
You can lift the block by the head bolt holes, just pick up some appropriate-sized bolts at the hardware store (I just looked it up, they're 12mm x 1.50mm thread pitch). Place one lifting bolt in a rear corner of the block, the other one kitty-corner at the front.
BTW an engine stand is a worthy investment, you don't wanna be working on the short block with it sitting in a tire, on the floor, etc.
More than likely, for the price your machine shop would charge you to install the aluminum oil pan, you could pick up a decent engine stand.
Once mounted on a stand, you can roll that block over and it's a cinch to install the upper oil pan.
Just a thought, have fun!..........ed
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
Keep On Troopin' !