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4ZE1 timing belt replacement

13K views 42 replies 6 participants last post by  batman 
#1 ·
I have found tons of discussion on the subject and come to the conclusion that I need to replace mine in the near future after pulling the upper cover and seeing good rubber on the belt, but some minor gouges on the outer edge where it looks like it walked a bit and contacted the cover or something else.

I have watched the Youtube videos and read what I can find on here about replacement, but haven't found a good "sticky" or tutorial on the subject. If there is one, can someone please direct me to it?

If not, is everyone just using the FSM? I can't find a copy of the FSM for reasonable money on eBay so if anyone could direct me to a good source, website, etc. for replacing the timing belt, I would greatly appreciate it!

Thanks,

Dan
 
#28 ·
batman said:
If it hasn't slipped then putting the stripe Dsuzu recommended would be a good idea. I'm going to check my balancer and mark it just in case.
I took a quick look at the balancer and it definitely has some chips missing from it, I can't even really see the timing mark anymore. Probably time for a new one!
 
#30 ·
DSUZU said:
djangofly said:
I have heard the rumors of the balancers slipping, but this is kind of absurd
Two of the main causes of balancer failure are fatigue from age and heat and overtightening the belts. Tight belts cause the rubber section to constantly flex, weaken, and fail.
I recommend painting a stripe from the center hole to the outer pulley. This will always be easily visible and any slippage will cause the stripe to be misaligned. Dennis
Dennis,

Any tips on what 'tight enough' should be? The manual says about 10mm at the widest spaced point on the belt, but even this seems a bit tight to me. My PS pump is/was making a bit of a whir and wondering if my belt is too tight.

Mahalo!
 
#31 ·
Does anyone have the accessory belt routing diagram for an 89 LS with power steering and A/C? I plan on having this completely finished tomorrow.

Also, I am not a fan of the OEM hose clamps. I find them really hard to use, and naturally, broke one. In any event, new cut to fit upper and lower radiator hoses are installed at least.
 
#35 ·
Draincock arrived and appears to be a match. If yours is yellow, I would suggest ordering a new one now as these ship from overseas.



If you are desperate for a replacement in short order, this bolt with a rubber washer will fit. Not a common size or thread count, FYI:



Will finish the belts in the next couple days and then it is fingers crossed this thing better start time.
 
#36 ·
The draincock you got has a nice deep channel. The one that came on my replacement radiator has a piddly little one and it takes FOREVER to drain. I'd pull it out full flow but I have curious dogs I want to keep safe.
 
#38 ·
FYI, for draining radiators (which I had to do a few times on my Spacecab). I use the small black plastic mortar mixing tray / pan from Home Depot or any other box store (a clean one). They are big enough to catch most of what comes out and even most of the drips that run along the frame or steering components. Then they are light and flexible enough to pour the contents into a proper container. If reusing the coolant, I pour through an old hand towel to catch any debris. Dennis
 
#40 ·
Belts are in and everything is running like a top. Thanks for all of the assistance, everyone!

Ended up with an unintended radiator flush, new upper and lower hoses, draincock (to be installed as temp. bolt fix is holding fine). Along with the recent valve adjustment and replacement of virtually all of the vacuum hoses, I think this is it other than cosmetic stuff and basic maintenance for awhile!

Dan
 
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