1995 Rodeo Timing Belt Replacement and 6VD1 question

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1995 Rodeo Timing Belt Replacement and 6VD1 question

Postby CHILLSPINE » Sat Oct 07, 2006 1:41 am

Aloha! First-time post....

My '95 Rodeo shagged it's timing belt yesterday. I know it's the timing belt because it bandsawed its way through the belt cover after breaking! Sure made diagnosis simple! It was like... open the hood... oh, yes. Well. THIS seems to be the problem. Big teardrop-shaped hole cut neatly out of the upper lobe of the belt shroud, exposing the cam gear.

I intend to do the work myself (along with tensioners, water pump, etc.), but I'm used to working on older Chevys, mostly. I have seen a lot of contradictory info about this engine... SO:

1) Is my 6VD1 24 valve engine an interference type, or not? I have seen claims (on parts sites) that it is, and some that it isn't. Seems to me that with the efficiency of 24 valves, the valves wouldn't have to open far enough to make 'interference' necessary.

2) Any input about the number of teeth on that belt? Vendors list different items for the same engine. Failing that, is there a way to figure it out by counting the cam-gear teeth?

2) Even though this is a V-6 engine, it's listed as SOHC... is that because each cylinder bank has a single cam? Even though there are 2 cams total? DOHC makes me think of 2 cams total, but this is different, I guess...?

I'd appreciate some definitive info from you IsuzuDudes!

Mahalo!

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Re: 1995 Rodeo Timing Belt Replacement and 6VD1 question

Postby trooperbc » Sat Oct 07, 2006 1:53 am

succinctly --

1) non interference
2) order from the dealer; i'd suggest st charles isuzu in missouri; free ship, to you, 15% discount, ask for Merlin http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/Department-Parts.aspx

or JLEMOND, someone will chime in i hope with contact info or try the PM feature here

or maybe you are closer to japan...

2) yes, yes, no (dohc = dual overhead cams per bank)

my belt did the same thing to the tb covers and they ain't cheap either. the water pump froze.


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Just more Interference Engine controversy...

Postby CHILLSPINE » Tue Oct 17, 2006 9:36 pm

It seems that even timing belt suppliers can't decide whether the 6VD1 3.2 SOHC in my '95 Rodeo is an interference type or not!

Anyway, I've counted the teeth on the old belt, and there are 223. Interference or not, I am replacing it with another with the same tooth-count, spec'd for the 6VD1 engine, despite the mfr's claim that this is an interference engine.

Length and tooth-count ARE all that matter, right?

:P
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Postby tomster » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:38 am

"Length and tooth-count ARE all that matter, right?" No, not really. You want the exact same tooth width and depth. You want a good quality belt that won't stretch and can hold up. In otherwords you want OEM or maybe a Gates belt.

Also, as a new member you may not know who Jerry Lemond is. He is former trainer of Isuzu technicians who oftentimes posts here. If he says it is non-interference it is non-interference.
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Postby JLEMOND » Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:09 am

tomster wrote:"Length and tooth-count ARE all that matter, right?" No, not really. You want the exact same tooth width and depth. You want a good quality belt that won't stretch and can hold up. In otherwords you want OEM or maybe a Gates belt.

Also, as a new member you may not know who Jerry Lemond is. He is former trainer of Isuzu technicians who oftentimes posts here. If he says it is non-interference it is non-interference.

THANKS TOMSTER, DEFINATELY IT IS A NON INTERFERENCE ENG AND GET THE FACTORY BELT OR THE GATES AND YOU WILL BE FINE JUST ORDER FRO YOUR YEAR AND SOHC ENG THERE IS ONLY ONE BELT, THE DAYCO IS ALLSO A VERY GOOD BELT , GOOD YEACH OR FURSTONED YUR ON YUR ON JERRY
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Postby trooperbc » Thu Oct 19, 2006 2:13 am

JLEMOND wrote:[... GOOD YEACH OR FURSTONED YUR ON YUR ON JERRY



what ?

:)


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Postby JLEMOND » Thu Oct 19, 2006 8:52 pm

trooperbc wrote:
JLEMOND wrote:[... GOOD YEACH OR FURSTONED YUR ON YUR ON JERRY



what ?

:) SHOULDNT SAY GOOD BLIMP BELTS ARE NO GOOD
OR THE FIRE BELTED BRIDGE STEELS


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Postby trooperbc » Fri Oct 20, 2006 2:36 am

JLEMOND wrote:... :) SHOULDNT SAY GOOD BLIMP BELTS ARE NO GOOD
OR THE FIRE BELTED BRIDGE STEELS


oh... :? hang around here much more and pretty soon i'm gonna be able to understand that guy on that milwaukee iron show............ :)

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Questions and hints

Postby Strider93 » Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:30 pm

Questions: How many miles were on your belt when it broke? Did one of pulleys, idler, tensioner, water pump seize up?

Hints:

Make sure to get the entire timing belt kit: Belt, tensioner, idler pulley, water pump and gasket.

Use large spring clamp type paper clips to hold the timing belt onto the cam pulleys when installing the new belt.

Double check and triple check the cam timing alignment when you put it all together, and run the motor a few times through by hand with a ratchet on the crank pully bolt and re-check the timing marks on the cam pulleys.

The harmonic balancer pulley bolt comes off really easy with a breaker bar and a cheater pipe wedged against the ground or the frame. Bump the starter motor (just a bump mind you, don't crank it!) and voila! Bolt is loose.

To retighten that bolt I used a belt strap wrench that I bought at harbor freight, with a cheater bar on the strap wrench, and my torque wrench on the bolt. I can't remember if that bolt requires some locktite or not... many of my other vehicles do.

Since you have to remove the radiator, take the opportunity to take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and inspected. Usually can be done for about $25, or else maybe get a new radiator if it has high miles...

Inspect the fan clutch. If the fan clutch is wearing out, sometimes they can be rejuvinated with some silicon fan clutch oil... got some once from a Toyota dealer, but can't remember the part number... or else just replace it. This is a vital component for proper cooling and is often overlooked when overheating problems occur.

Replace all rubber cooling hoses, including those to the oil cooler on the oil filter housing and to the heater core at the firewall. Replace the radiator cap and thermostat too. Replace all the belts, fan, alternator, A/C, power steering.

The extras that I've listed here may not necessarily need to be done and do increase the cost, however since you are in there already it is the ideal time to do it.
95.5 Rodeo S 3.2L V6 4x4, 5-spd, 16" alloys with limited slip diff, 1.5 inch lift, flipped BJ's, low-pro bumpstops, Superwinch manual hubs, 178K miles and still going strong. Planning on raising it up to 3" lift and adding 265/75R16 tires.
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Postby sailor » Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:20 pm

Now, to make this clear to me........ sorry, but english isn't my first lingo. :oops:

Is a 3,2L V6 Double OHC 24 Valve engine of the non interference kind ?

Not that I'am gonna take any chances, but ..... just nice to know.
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