After what I discovered must be the result of oil starvation, the engine in my 99 Trooper is about to die. I hear a higher pitched ticking that matches the engine speed which I'm pretty sure is coming from under the valve cover. It's probably due to a shim that was worn excessively due to lack of lubrication. That's not such a problem as long as the tappets and cam are in shape.
Secondly, I hear a lower banging sound when the RPMs increase. I don't hear it at idle and the noise is a little less consistent than the ticking mentioned above. If I had to guess, it's not due to a faulty timing belt tensioner. I assume it's rod-knock on cylinder one based on what I've read on this forum. Obviously, this is a more serious problem than the first and I'm looking into my options for an engine rebuild.
Since I first heard these noises, I immediately checked the oil level and discovered a dry dipstick. I filled to capacity and drove maybe 20 miles, parked it in my driveway, and haven't driven it since. I did an oil change using a pre-change additive (I would have used seafoam if I had known about it) and added some engine honey with the new 5W-30 oil. I started it up and let it warm up for a few minutes but the noises didn't seem to be significantly affected by the change.
I don't plan on driving it until I have a solution plan, there's no sense it making the problem worse by poking a rod through the block or spinning another bearing.
I have some questions that I'm hoping someone can help me out with:
1. Where can I buy valve shims in bulk? I called the dealership and they want $7 a piece (fine, I can handle that since I'm guessing I don't have to replace many of them.) But they mentioned that they come in varying thicknesses from 2.4-3.2mm. I'm sure this is to allow adjustment of the correct clearance. Plus, they don't stock these shims and they'd need to order them bulk or in a really expensive kit. Since a shim is just a metal cylinder with a diameter and thickness (probably cut from a long rod), I'm pretty sure there's got to be a place with buckets of these things where I can go to pick up the ones I need. Maybe I'm living in fantasy land. Please let me know if there are places that stock this type of part and how I might find them.
2. What is necessary to get to cylinder one's crank bearing? Is it necessary to pull the motor to drop the oil pan? Does the trooper have a single oil pan or is it one of the upper/lower types? How much can you really see when the pan is off? I haven't gotten underneath and taken a look but it'd be great if I could get the pan off and evaluate the condition of the bottom end before pulling the motor entirely.
3. Is there a good source for a replacement engine (long block or short block) if I decide to go that route? I'm pretty sure the top end of the motor doesn't need any work but while it's off, I'd probably have a shop run through the heads just to be sure. I've learned that Troopers share a motor with the 98-99 Acura SLX and the 02-03 Axiom (only difference here is the cam position or cam angle sensor.) Do these other options make finding parts any easier?
4. Are there any other engine options? It'd be fun to drop a Ford 302 or a Chevy 305 in but I doubt anything would match up mechanically or electrically. I didn't really intend to turn this into a major project but if there are people with experience in these swaps I'd consider it.
5. Are there any Isuzu-experienced engine rebuilders in southeast Michigan?
6. What am I forgetting?
I appreciate any help you gents can offer.
Secondly, I hear a lower banging sound when the RPMs increase. I don't hear it at idle and the noise is a little less consistent than the ticking mentioned above. If I had to guess, it's not due to a faulty timing belt tensioner. I assume it's rod-knock on cylinder one based on what I've read on this forum. Obviously, this is a more serious problem than the first and I'm looking into my options for an engine rebuild.
Since I first heard these noises, I immediately checked the oil level and discovered a dry dipstick. I filled to capacity and drove maybe 20 miles, parked it in my driveway, and haven't driven it since. I did an oil change using a pre-change additive (I would have used seafoam if I had known about it) and added some engine honey with the new 5W-30 oil. I started it up and let it warm up for a few minutes but the noises didn't seem to be significantly affected by the change.
I don't plan on driving it until I have a solution plan, there's no sense it making the problem worse by poking a rod through the block or spinning another bearing.
I have some questions that I'm hoping someone can help me out with:
1. Where can I buy valve shims in bulk? I called the dealership and they want $7 a piece (fine, I can handle that since I'm guessing I don't have to replace many of them.) But they mentioned that they come in varying thicknesses from 2.4-3.2mm. I'm sure this is to allow adjustment of the correct clearance. Plus, they don't stock these shims and they'd need to order them bulk or in a really expensive kit. Since a shim is just a metal cylinder with a diameter and thickness (probably cut from a long rod), I'm pretty sure there's got to be a place with buckets of these things where I can go to pick up the ones I need. Maybe I'm living in fantasy land. Please let me know if there are places that stock this type of part and how I might find them.
2. What is necessary to get to cylinder one's crank bearing? Is it necessary to pull the motor to drop the oil pan? Does the trooper have a single oil pan or is it one of the upper/lower types? How much can you really see when the pan is off? I haven't gotten underneath and taken a look but it'd be great if I could get the pan off and evaluate the condition of the bottom end before pulling the motor entirely.
3. Is there a good source for a replacement engine (long block or short block) if I decide to go that route? I'm pretty sure the top end of the motor doesn't need any work but while it's off, I'd probably have a shop run through the heads just to be sure. I've learned that Troopers share a motor with the 98-99 Acura SLX and the 02-03 Axiom (only difference here is the cam position or cam angle sensor.) Do these other options make finding parts any easier?
4. Are there any other engine options? It'd be fun to drop a Ford 302 or a Chevy 305 in but I doubt anything would match up mechanically or electrically. I didn't really intend to turn this into a major project but if there are people with experience in these swaps I'd consider it.
5. Are there any Isuzu-experienced engine rebuilders in southeast Michigan?
6. What am I forgetting?
I appreciate any help you gents can offer.