What Gears are in my Rodeo

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What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby Bikesrcool » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:13 pm

front and rear dif and t case? i think for the dif's its 4.10? i do not know??
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby holger » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:41 pm

Bikesrcool wrote:front and rear dif and t case? i think for the dif's its 4.10? i do not know??


My understanding is that in those years most open diffs were 4.10 and most LSD diffs were 4.30.
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby Bikesrcool » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:45 pm

holger wrote:
Bikesrcool wrote:front and rear dif and t case? i think for the dif's its 4.10? i do not know??


My understanding is that in those years most open diffs were 4.10 and most LSD diffs were 4.30.


ohh ok man whats the tcase gear?
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby Med!c » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:47 pm

holger wrote:
Bikesrcool wrote:front and rear dif and t case? i think for the dif's its 4.10? i do not know??


My understanding is that in those years most open diffs were 4.10 and most LSD diffs were 4.30.


I thought autos were 4.10, manuals are 4.30
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby holger » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:48 pm

Bikesrcool wrote:
holger wrote:
Bikesrcool wrote:front and rear dif and t case? i think for the dif's its 4.10? i do not know??


My understanding is that in those years most open diffs were 4.10 and most LSD diffs were 4.30.


ohh ok man whats the tcase gear?


yours is very close to 2:1, something like 2.05:1
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby holger » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:49 pm

Med!c wrote:
holger wrote:I thought autos were 4.10, manuals are 4.30


I knew about some autos with 4.30 and LSD.
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby Bikesrcool » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:50 pm

holger wrote:
Bikesrcool wrote:
holger wrote:
Bikesrcool wrote:front and rear dif and t case? i think for the dif's its 4.10? i do not know??


My understanding is that in those years most open diffs were 4.10 and most LSD diffs were 4.30.


ohh ok man whats the tcase gear?


yours is very close to 2:1, something like 2.05:1


ohh damnn well hopefully summer time all that indapendent garbage is getten riped out going toyota dana 44 in the rear dana20 t case and jeep dana35
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby Bikesrcool » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:50 pm

holger wrote:
Med!c wrote:
holger wrote:I thought autos were 4.10, manuals are 4.30


I knew about some autos with 4.30 and LSD.


and i have a manual tranny
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby jeremy_worden » Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:52 pm

Bikesrcool wrote:front and rear dif and t case? i think for the dif's its 4.10? i do not know??


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Postby Med!c » Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:48 pm

I have an auto with LSD and I have 4.10. I thought all 98+ rodeos were 4.1 auto, and 4.3 manual, and the troopers were 4.30 auto.

Honestly though, just look at ur option code tag. That'll tell you what u have. Let me see if I can find the site..
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Postby Med!c » Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:50 pm

00' Trooper 4x4- V6 3.5L
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Isuzu 12-Bolt Modified LSD
Isuzu 10-Bolt Aussie Locked
BGF AT T/A KO 285/75/16
Miss my old rodeo.

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Postby Bikesrcool » Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:56 pm



ha to many numbers and letters for my little head!!!! just kidding
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Postby Med!c » Mon Jan 24, 2011 7:01 pm

I know you said just kidding, but you know about the ctrl + f trick right?
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby Jaybird » Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:29 am

Bikesrcool wrote:ohh damnn well hopefully summer time all that indapendent garbage is getten riped out going toyota dana 44 in the rear dana20 t case and jeep dana35


so much fail in this sentence. toyota never made a dana 44. Dana axles makes them. your truck has a 44 rear. The pinion shaft of your 44 is the size of a dana 60 too, so its pretty strong. Dana 35s blow out ring and pinions with any kind of good wheeling on a decent size tire. Also, if your planing on running it in the front, I hope you can find someone who makes nuckles for that axle so you can make the first steering 35 out there. And I want to see how that dana20 bolts up to where that isuzu tcase was, which isnt a bad tcase concendering its gear driven, but the isuzu one is just as good, and isnt as heavy as the cast iron housing of that dana 20. Not trying to put you down or anything, but just give you the facts.
Last edited by Jaybird on Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby Bikesrcool » Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:34 am

Jaybird wrote:
Bikesrcool wrote:
holger wrote:ohh damnn well hopefully summer time all that indapendent garbage is getten riped out going toyota dana 44 in the rear dana20 t case and jeep dana35


so much fail in this sentence. toyota never made a dana 44. Dana axles makes them. your truck has a 44 rear. The pinion shaft of your 44 is the size of a dana 60 too, so its pretty strong. Dana 35s blow out ring and pinions with any kind of good wheeling on a decent size tire. Also, if your planing on running it in the front, I hope you can find someone who makes nuckles for that axle so you can make the first steering 35 out there. And I want to see how that dana20 bolts up to where that isuzu tcase was, which isnt a bad tcase concendering its gear driven, but the isuzu one is just as good, and isnt as heavy as the cast iron housing of that dana 20. Not trying to put you down or anything, but just give you the facts.


oh well ok mister no it all.. well i want to get a dana 44 and a dana35 and a dana20 tcase ofcorse there is gona be a buttload of fab
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Postby Jaybird » Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:44 am

why a dana 35? Those things just suck. Keep your rear axle, its beefy or atleast a matching dana 44 for the front. And have you concedered maybe a doing a 203/205 doubler? Cheap and great set up for low gear crawling. Ask any jeep guy with a half decent rig who wheels and they will tell you that the dana 35 sucks and is week. Small axle shafts, week axle tubes and a tiny ring gear. Thats why alot of jeep guys usually upgrade to a ford 8.8 rear end. And have you looked into toyota axles. They are pretty strong when built right, provide excelent ground clearance under the diff, and you can buy new housing with all the clearancing and stuff done right on them too. They have a drop out 3rd member so if you blow one out on the trail you can swap in a spare and keep going easily, you can run longfield super axle shafts and have no worrys about breaking, and have any width you want with the aftermarket axles. Ive seen people running 40 inch tall tires on them with little to no problems. No one can say that with a dana 35. But ya, you might put it in and make it a trail run or 2 but your replacing your already strong stock axle with a weaker one. Doesnt make sence to me.
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Postby Bikesrcool » Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:55 am

Jaybird wrote:why a dana 35? Those things just suck. Keep your rear axle, its beefy or atleast a matching dana 44 for the front. And have you concedered maybe a doing a 203/205 doubler? Cheap and great set up for low gear crawling. Ask any jeep guy with a half decent rig who wheels and they will tell you that the dana 35 sucks and is week. Small axle shafts, week axle tubes and a tiny ring gear. Thats why alot of jeep guys usually upgrade to a ford 8.8 rear end. And have you looked into toyota axles. They are pretty strong when built right, provide excelent ground clearance under the diff, and you can buy new housing with all the clearancing and stuff done right on them too. They have a drop out 3rd member so if you blow one out on the trail you can swap in a spare and keep going easily, you can run longfield super axle shafts and have no worrys about breaking, and have any width you want with the aftermarket axles. Ive seen people running 40 inch tall tires on them with little to no problems. No one can say that with a dana 35. But ya, you might put it in and make it a trail run or 2 but your replacing your already strong stock axle with a weaker one. Doesnt make sence to me.


u can run 37's in a dana 35 no prob just u got to build it! jeep dana 35 cuz parts a cheep and there everywhere.. if i had to choose my dream front axle it would be any thing currie!! but thats hella expencive.. notheing wrong with a dana 20 t case there bullet proof!! toyota axle is amazing or i wanna go a ford 9in rearend.. or maybe a dana44 in front
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Re: What Gears are in my Rodeo

Postby holger » Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:58 am

...
Last edited by holger on Tue Jan 25, 2011 2:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Jaybird » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:11 am

same money you spend on a 35 rear end to make to stronger could be spend getting a 9inch rear end and beefing it up just about. Dana 35s are still going to have a weak link at the ring gear. The price for como shafts to put in there will be more that a 9inch from the junk yard. Hell of alot strong with a stock 9inch. Granted you will want a 35 spline one but those are harder to find then a 30 spling one. Front axle, a dana 44 is fine. I have a matching set of front and rear for my rodeo when I get the cash to sas it. But dont over look a chevy 10bolt axle either. Very easy to find too, passanger drop already, and easy to get parts for too. But the one thing that is going to be hard is mating the dana 20 to your tranny unless you go devorced tcase which will still be a pain. The isuzu tcase is a very stout unit as well and I wouldnt see any reason to get ride of it. If you put in a devorced dana 20 you will have to swap out trannys to a 2wd unit because of the space left open were the isuzu tcase was. If you are going to mate the dana 20 to your tranny you will need adapter plates, a custom made sleave to match up the splines custom support for the tcase, new alxe shafts front and rear. And when anything you had to make go boom your screwed until you can make another one. Also, toyotas use a kingpin design which is stonger than the balljoint axles you are looking at. If you want a front axle with out a ball joint you will need kingpin dana 60s, which turn into rock ancors without a big enough tire to give you a good ground clearance, atleast a 40 inch tall tire. And ya, currie makes good axles, but so do dimond alxes. Ruffstuffs makes a good one to as well as ballistic fabrication. But really as far as axles, a dana 44 front with a 9inch rear is probably an ideal set up for you. Cheap, relyable, and easy to find parts for.
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Postby Bikesrcool » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:20 am

Jaybird wrote:same money you spend on a 35 rear end to make to stronger could be spend getting a 9inch rear end and beefing it up just about. Dana 35s are still going to have a weak link at the ring gear. The price for como shafts to put in there will be more that a 9inch from the junk yard. Hell of alot strong with a stock 9inch. Granted you will want a 35 spline one but those are harder to find then a 30 spling one. Front axle, a dana 44 is fine. I have a matching set of front and rear for my rodeo when I get the cash to sas it. But dont over look a chevy 10bolt axle either. Very easy to find too, passanger drop already, and easy to get parts for too. But the one thing that is going to be hard is mating the dana 20 to your tranny unless you go devorced tcase which will still be a pain. The isuzu tcase is a very stout unit as well and I wouldnt see any reason to get ride of it. If you put in a devorced dana 20 you will have to swap out trannys to a 2wd unit because of the space left open were the isuzu tcase was. If you are going to mate the dana 20 to your tranny you will need adapter plates, a custom made sleave to match up the splines custom support for the tcase, new alxe shafts front and rear. And when anything you had to make go boom your screwed until you can make another one. Also, toyotas use a kingpin design which is stonger than the balljoint axles you are looking at. If you want a front axle with out a ball joint you will need kingpin dana 60s, which turn into rock ancors without a big enough tire to give you a good ground clearance, atleast a 40 inch tall tire. And ya, currie makes good axles, but so do dimond alxes. Ruffstuffs makes a good one to as well as ballistic fabrication. But really as far as axles, a dana 44 front with a 9inch rear is probably an ideal set up for you. Cheap, relyable, and easy to find parts for.


good tip mann.... i can get a dana 60 for free from my prerunner buddy i would just need a front axle!!! and leaf packs !! and shackles and breaklines and breaks and alot and matching gears
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Postby Jaybird » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:29 am

ya, the reason I said matching rear axles has alot to do with your current rear axle as covered in this thread.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=603807

Also, rear dana 60 axle have axle shafts the same size of dana 44s btw. no real big upgrade with that other than ring gear size but still if you can get it for free its not a bad idea to put it back there. It will be easier to match gears. Also is folsom in california? If so I would read up on their laws for vehicles. Or what ever state you live in. If you plan on trying to drive your truck on the street you might get hassled with the modes you wanting. Also, leaf packs are cheap and easy to find at a pick and pull. Or go after market. I personally like toyota leaf packs. Flex great, ride well, and arnt retardedly long like chevys. Also, ford f150 rear packs have pretty nice down travel as well. My friend runs dever leafs that he had custom made. Work amazing on his toyota. Incredable droop out on those things.
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Postby Gizmo42 » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:30 am

Would like to know how you plan to put a dana t-case on the mua-5 since the t-case isnt divorced.

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Since you have a 5 speed you have 4.30 gears.

Forget the D-35, your cv axles are stronger. If you're set on getting an axle from a heep, get a D-44 out of a wagoneer. It will be much stronger.
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Postby Bikesrcool » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:32 am

Jaybird wrote:ya, the reason I said matching rear axles has alot to do with your current rear axle as covered in this thread.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=603807

Also, rear dana 60 axle have axle shafts the same size of dana 44s btw. no real big upgrade with that other than ring gear size but still if you can get it for free its not a bad idea to put it back there. It will be easier to match gears. Also is folsom in california? If so I would read up on their laws for vehicles. Or what ever state you live in. If you plan on trying to drive your truck on the street you might get hassled with the modes you wanting. Also, leaf packs are cheap and easy to find at a pick and pull. Or go after market. I personally like toyota leaf packs. Flex great, ride well, and arnt retardedly long like chevys. Also, ford f150 rear packs have pretty nice down travel as well. My friend runs dever leafs that he had custom made. Work amazing on his toyota. Incredable droop out on those things.



forshuree mannn.. yeah there is no vehicle code in sac county that said i cant do this .. free is better in my book.. the dana60 is 8 lug! yeah wrangler leafpacks get gnar flex and droop
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Postby RamAirZ » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:33 am

Bikesrcool wrote:
u can run 37's in a dana 35 no prob just u got to build it! jeep dana 35 cuz parts a cheep and there everywhere.. if i had to choose my dream front axle it would be any thing currie!! but thats hella expencive.. notheing wrong with a dana 20 t case there bullet proof!! toyota axle is amazing or i wanna go a ford 9in rearend.. or maybe a dana44 in front


Not gonna comment on much else here cuz Jay is doing a good job but saying that the Dana 35 is better to build because it's cheap and parts are everywhere because it's a Jeep axle, I think you'll find a Dana 44 out of a JEEP Wagoneer will be just as cheap to build and MUCH stronger, plus you already have a Dana 44 in your truck, just find the front 44 out of the Jeep wagoneer and you'll be good unless you wanna swap over to full-size axles.
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Postby Jaybird » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:42 am

Well, I think Ive contributed enough tech for tonight. lol. 1 full hour to be exact. :lol:
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