Rear axle seals / bearing replacement

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Rear axle seals / bearing replacement

Postby jessescott » Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:00 pm

On the Trooper, my rear axle (12 bolt - limited slip) has been locking up on me in turns, so this afternoon I started to drain and refill the diff oil. While I was under the truck, I noticed that the rear pass. side wheel, tire, and brake parts are covered in greasy goo that smells like gear oil.

I have the caliper off, as well as the rotor. How do I remove the axle shaft to get to the seal? On this axle, can't I just remove the ABS sensor, remove the parking brake parts, remove the four nuts that hold the bearing housing, and pull the axle? If I understand right, there is no clip to remove in the diff. on this axle to pull the shaft. Am I right?

Also, while I'm in there, should I go ahead and replace the bearing also? This truck is just about to hit 200,000 miles. If the axle moves fine, could I be okay to just replace that outer seal?
Last edited by jessescott on Fri Nov 26, 2010 5:16 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: 95 Trooper - Rear axle seal replacement

Postby BigSwede » Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:51 pm

beagler wrote:I have the caliper off, as well as the rotor. How do I remove the axle shaft to get to the seal? On this axle, can't I just remove the parking brake parts, the backing plate, and remove the four nuts that hold the bearing housing?

Yes. Pay attention to how those emergency brake parts go together before disassembly...

If I understand right, there is no clip to remove in the diff. on this axle to pull the shaft. Am I right?

Yes.

Also, while I'm in there, should I go ahead and replace the bearing also? This truck is just about to hit 200,000 miles. If the axle moves fine, could I be okay to just replace that outer seal?

IMO, if they are good I would leave it alone. Others may disagree.

BTW in my experience the Isuzu OEM seals are well worth the dollar or two extra they cost. I tried two different aftermarket seals on my Trooper, both leaked right away. The OEM seals did the trick and have been fine for a couple years now.
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Postby jessescott » Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:36 pm

Thanks BigSwede.

Okay, now the basement garage smells really nice. Tabitha is going to kill me when she gets home because the Trooper and the gear oil stench are in her garage bay.

I've made it this far, and can see where it shouldn't be too hard to replace the bearing while I'm in there.:

Image

Image

All the brake parts were pretty oily, and will need a good cleaning:

Image

Now a couple of questions. First, how does all of this come apart? Is the bearing pressed onto the axle shaft, or should I be able to slide the shaft out of this assembly somehow?:

Image

And next question: Some of the splines on the axle shaft look a little boogered up. Is this too bad, or will it be fine for awhile like this?:

Image
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Postby JLEMOND » Mon Nov 22, 2010 10:09 pm

beagler wrote:Thanks BigSwede.

Okay, now the basement garage smells really nice. Tabitha is going to kill me when she gets home because the Trooper and the gear oil stench are in her garage bay.

I've made it this far, and can see where it shouldn't be too hard to replace the bearing while I'm in there.:

Image

Image

All the brake parts were pretty oily, and will need a good cleaning:

Image

Now a couple of questions. First, how does all of this come apart? Is the bearing pressed onto the axle shaft, or should I be able to slide the shaft out of this assembly somehow?:

Image

And next question: Some of the splines on the axle shaft look a little boogered up. Is this too bad, or will it be fine for awhile like this?:

Image


JESSE , THAT COLLAR AND BEARING HAS TO BE PRESSED OFF , AND IT TAKES ABOUT 20 TONS TO GET IT TO MOVE, WHAT ,MOST LIKELY CAUSED THE LEAK IN THE FIRST PLACE , THE VENT FOR THE DIFF HOUSING IS PLUGGED UP AND IT WILL BUILD UP PRESSURE AND AND FORCE THE OIL PAST THE INSIDE SEAL INTO THE BEARING AND THEN ONTO THE BRAKES AND EVERYTHING ELSE, SOME PEOPLE BEAT AND CUT AND HAMMER THAT COLLAR OFF BUT IT IS TAKING A CHANCE THAT YOU CAN DAMAGE THE AXLE, AND NOT MANY MACHINE SHOPS CAN OR WILL PRESS IT OFF, OR BETTER YET EVEN KNOW HOW , JUST DID TWO ON A VX AXLE ONE TOOK 25 TON AND THE OTHER TOOK 27 AND IT MAKES A BANG WHEN IT LETS GO , IF THE BEARING WAS NOT MAKING ANY NOISE , YOU CAN PROB REMOVE IT AND CLEAN IT UP AND REPACK IT ONCE IT IS OUT AND OFF THE AXLE, THOSE BEARING ARE NOT LUBED BY THE DIFF GREASE , THEY ARE PACKED AND SEALED , JERRY , GIVE ME A CALL IF YOU GET STUCK
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Postby jessescott » Mon Nov 22, 2010 10:57 pm

Thanks Jerry. I have a 20 ton Harbor Freight shop press, but it sounds like that might not be enough to get the bearing off. If that press would be sufficient, how do you set it up? I've used the press to press bearings in and out of Ford Focus spindles, but that was pretty easy to set up. I'll give you a call in the morning to see about getting the seal, and if you don't get a chance to explain here, I can ask you then how you set this up on the press to get the bearing off of the axle shaft.

It sounds like, at a minimum, I can take care of the plugged vent and change the seal. I didn't realize that the gear oil wasn't supposed to make it to the bearing (and had figured that the bearing was lubed by the gear oil). So this is the seal where the oil is getting out?:

Image
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Postby JLEMOND » Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:15 pm

beagler wrote:Thanks Jerry. I have a 20 ton Harbor Freight shop press, but it sounds like that might not be enough to get the bearing off. If that press would be sufficient, how do you set it up? I've used the press to press bearings in and out of Ford Focus spindles, but that was pretty easy to set up. I'll give you a call in the morning to see about getting the seal, and if you don't get a chance to explain here, I can ask you then how you set this up on the press to get the bearing off of the axle shaft.

It sounds like, at a minimum, I can take care of the plugged vent and change the seal. I didn't realize that the gear oil wasn't supposed to make it to the bearing (and had figured that the bearing was lubed by the gear oil). So this is the seal where the oil is getting out?:

Image


YEP THER IS NOT SUPPOSSED TO BE OIL THERE, YOU NEED TO HAVE A SPECIAL SET OF BEARING PLATES TO HOLD THE AXLE WHILE YOU PRESS IT APART THAT GOES IN BETWEEN BACKING PLATE AND THE AXLE CARRIER , I BENT THE ONES I HAVE AND THEY ARTE OVER 1 INCH THICK AND ARE TEMPERED HARD AS GLASS AND STILL BENT THEN .
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Postby cyberdog » Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:59 am

I have same problem with the oil in the right rear brake. Do i remove the axle the same way on my 1987 trooper?

Is the seal near the bearing on mine or is it near the diff?

Where can i get a new seal?

When putting it back together do i just slide the axle back annd its good or do i need to remove the diff aswell?

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Postby JLEMOND » Tue Nov 23, 2010 11:15 am

cyberdog wrote:I have same problem with the oil in the right rear brake. Do i remove the axle the same way on my 1987 trooper?


THE AXLE COMES OUT THE SAME WAY WITH THE FOUR RETAING BOLTS GOIGNTHRU THE BACKING PLATE TO THE AXLE HOUSING,
Is the seal near the bearing on mine or is it near the diff?
AFTER GETTING THE AXLE OUT YOU WILL SEE A VERY LARGE NIT THAT SCREWS ONTO THE AXLE, THIS NIT HAS TO COME OFF AND THEN THE BEARING, AND THE SEAL IS IN THE OUTER BEARIGN HOUSING, AND THERE IS ALL SO A SEAL IN SID ETHE AXLE HOUSING THAT SHOULD BE REPLACED WHILE THE AXLE IS OUT,

Where can i get a new seal?
I HAVE THOSE SEALS, AND NEW AXLE LOCK NUTS

When putting it back together do i just slide the axle back annd its good or do i need to remove the diff aswell?


ONCE THE SEAL AND THE BEARINGS ARE BACK ON THE AXLE JUST SLIDE IT BACK INTO THE HOUSING, NOT NEED TO PULL TH E DIFF OUT,

THE ONLY THINK YOU HAVE TO DO IS GET THAT BIG NUT EXTREMLY TIGHT
TURN THE AXLE UPSIDE DOWN AND HOLD THE NUT IN A VISE AND THEN TURN THE AXLE ITSELF WITH A BAR PLACED BETWEEN THE STUDS AND GET IT AS TIGHT AS YOU POSSIBLE CAN , IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE 200. FT LB,S AND HAS A LOCK PLATE BEHIND THE NUT , IF IT COMES LOOSE THE AXLE AND WHEEL CAN COME OUT OF THE HOUSING.
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Postby cyberdog » Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:31 pm

Took the axle out on mine and it was pretty easy :) Is there any other seal on this side or is it just the one in the axletube ? Anything behind the bearing ?

EDIT:

Ok so there is a outer oil seal behind the bearing and then the one on the axletube :) Does anyone know the sizes of those 2 on the 1987 Trooper with the 10bold axle ?

The outer seems to hold tight since when i have been washing it there hasnt come a drop of water or anything through that seal.

But the one on the tube seems to not hold tight since between the bearing and that seal there was a ton of oil/grease.

Looking at the below pic i need 16 and 40 right ?

Image
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Postby JLEMOND » Tue Nov 23, 2010 6:58 pm

cyberdog wrote:Took the axle out on mine and it was pretty easy :) Is there any other seal on this side or is it just the one in the axletube ? Anything behind the bearing ?

EDIT:

Ok so there is a outer oil seal behind the bearing and then the one on the axletube :) Does anyone know the sizes of those 2 on the 1987 Trooper with the 10bold axle ?

The outer seems to hold tight since when i have been washing it there hasnt come a drop of water or anything through that seal.

But the one on the tube seems to not hold tight since between the bearing and that seal there was a ton of oil/grease.

Looking at the below pic i need 16 and 40 right ?

THERE ARE TWO SEALS, NO 40 IS THE INNER AXLE TUBE SEAL AND THE NO 16 IS THE OUTER AXLE SEAL , THAT HAS TO HAVE THE ASSY DISSASEMBLED TO GET TOO. JERRY

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Postby oldestisuzuist » Tue Nov 23, 2010 9:49 pm

CYBERDOG- '87 Trooper inner axle seal: Timken# 473812, available at any parts store. Try replacing only the inner first, see if it stops the leak. It is very easy to bend when installing (if it bends it will still leak), suggest a bearing/seal install set
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Postby jessescott » Tue Nov 23, 2010 10:49 pm

cyberdog wrote:But the one on the tube seems to not hold tight since between the bearing and that seal there was a ton of oil/grease.


You will want to replace that seal to stop the gear oil from getting to the bearing. You'll want to check the axle vent tube to be sure that it is venting properly, as that is what was stopped up on mine and was causing the oil to blow past the passenger side seals and bearing.

Also, since oil has already been getting to the bearing (and diluting the grease in that bearing), you'll need to check the condition of the bearing and, IF it is still in good shape, you'll need to repack the bearing with good grease.

As BigSwede suggested, it is also recommended to go with Isuzu seals as many on here have had leaks soon after with the aftermarket, parts store seals. You probably have a source for Isuzu parts in Sweden, but if you don't, send a PM to Jerry Lemond. He goes by JLEMOND on here and he has the seals that you need.

Here's the latest on my axle repair project. I gave Jerry a call this morning, and ended up going by his shop. A big thanks goes to him, as he used his press to remove the collar, ABS tone ring, and what was left of the bearing.

He said that if my bearing was still in good shape, we could repack it with grease and it would be good to go. As you can see from the photo below, the gear oil had diluted the grease so much that there was none left. In fact, there wasn't much left of the bearing either, so Jerry pressed in a new bearing for me.

Here's what my old bearing looked like :shock: :shock: :

Image
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Postby cyberdog » Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:57 am

I have pm:ed JLEMOND about the seals. Tried finding them in Sweden but no luck so faar so might aswell buy them from him :-)

Ordered a new brakecylinder aswell cause it was cheap and the old looked bad.
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Postby sanramonrover » Thu Nov 25, 2010 1:59 am

I know this thread is on Trooper, but does anyone know if the 1991 KB pickup is the same?

I have the useless Haynes manual which shows the same exploded view. But when removing my axles, it appears that the axle bearing is held on with a big nut, locked in place by tab. I also understood the bearings to be tapered roller bearings instead of ball races, as seen in those photos.

This means their fit is adjusted by shims between the bearing housing and the axle tube. True?


Any insights?
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Postby JLEMOND » Thu Nov 25, 2010 8:46 pm

sanramonrover wrote:I know this thread is on Trooper, but does anyone know if the 1991 KB pickup is the same?

I have the useless Haynes manual which shows the same exploded view. But when removing my axles, it appears that the axle bearing is held on with a big nut, locked in place by tab. I also understood the bearings to be tapered roller bearings instead of ball races, as seen in those photos.

This means their fit is adjusted by shims between the bearing housing and the axle tube. True?


Any insights?

YES EVERY THING YOU JUST SAID IS TRUE , YOU HAVE THE 10 BOLT REAR AXLE SAME AS THE EARLY TROOPER AND PICKUP, OPEN THE LOCK TAB AND REMOVE THE BIG NUT, REPLACE THE BEARIGNS AND SEAL, AND KEEP THE SHIMS IN THEIR SAME SPOT AND YOU WILL BE OK, THE ONLY TIME THEY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED IS IF YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THE BEARING HOLDER ASSY, WHERE REASSEMBLING BE SURE THAT BIG NUT IS TIGHT TORQUE IS 200. FT LB,S AND THEN LOCK IT WITH THE DRIVE OVER TAB, YOU DONT WANT THAT THING COMING LOOSE , JERRY
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Postby sanramonrover » Fri Nov 26, 2010 12:17 pm

Hey Jerry,
Thanks for the confirmation! I just checked with our Canadian Isuzu (GMC) supplier who tells me that he can GET the necessary parts on order. Now that I have part numbers I'll check Costa Rican suppliers.

I would guess that it is not possible to grease that bearing without removing the carrier, or that big nut??
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Postby JLEMOND » Fri Nov 26, 2010 12:35 pm

sanramonrover wrote:Hey Jerry,
Thanks for the confirmation! I just checked with our Canadian Isuzu (GMC) supplier who tells me that he can GET the necessary parts on order. Now that I have part numbers I'll check Costa Rican suppliers.

I would guess that it is not possible to grease that bearing without removing the carrier, or that big nut??


ACTUALLY I THINK YOU CAN GREASE THAT AXLE BEARING , IT IS NOT A SEALED BEARING LIKE THE 12 BOLT, AND THE DIFF CARRIER DOESNT HAVE TO BE REMOVED , JUST 4 BOLTS THE THE AXLE HOUSING END AND THE AXLE AND BRAKES AND THE WHOLE SHEBANG COME S RIGHT OUT, IF ONLY THE INNER SEAL IS LEAKING AND NOT THE OUTER SEAL, PULL THE AXLE ASSY, AND WASH THE OLD BEARIGN OUT WITH BRAKE CLEANER REALLY GOOD , AND THEN USE A NEEDLE TIPPED GREASE GUN AND PUMP THE INNER RACE BACK FULL OF GREASE , I WOULD USE ONE OF THE NEW WATER PROOF GREASES , AND YOU SHOULD BE OK ,JERRY
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Postby cyberdog » Fri Nov 26, 2010 3:47 pm

Have removed right rear brakes and axle now. The brakeshoes and everything else was coated with a layer of oil and grease :) I have cleaned up the shoes and washed the axle with high preassure washer so its all clean now.

Ordered new seals from JLEMOND so cant wait to get them home to change them. ALso i have ordered a new brake cylinder to replace the old since i already have it opened up :)


Image
Big nut removed. Do i need to press out the bearing or is there any other way to get it out ? I am guessing the seal is behind that bearing ?

Image
A big nut :)

Image
Old seal still in place but have cleaned it up. This area was full of oil/grease mixture.

Image
Just a pic looking inside the "axletube", Old seal still in place. Funny mirror effect inside.

Image
Heres a pic of the small wrench used to remove the nut that holds the bearing on the axle. Its sitting beside a 19mm one :) The big one is a 2 1/4" wrench.
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Postby BigSwede » Fri Nov 26, 2010 4:15 pm

Just so everyone is clear, this is a 10-bolt axle cyberdog is working on, not the 12-bolt that was the OP question...
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Postby cyberdog » Fri Nov 26, 2010 5:33 pm

Yeah its a 10bolt :) Sorry if i didnt make that clear :)

BTW BigSwede , u born in sweden and moved to US or just the nickname ? :)
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Postby JLEMOND » Fri Nov 26, 2010 8:59 pm

cyberdog wrote:Have removed right rear brakes and axle now. The brakeshoes and everything else was coated with a layer of oil and grease :) I have cleaned up the shoes and washed the axle with high preassure washer so its all clean now.

Ordered new seals from JLEMOND so cant wait to get them home to change them. ALso i have ordered a new brake cylinder to replace the old since i already have it opened up :)


Image
Big nut removed. Do i need to press out the bearing or is there any other way to get it out ? I am guessing the seal is behind that bearing ?


YES YOU WILL NEED TO PRESS OUT THE BEARING TO GET TO THE OUT BOARD SEAL.THESE ARNT GENERLY REALLY IN THERE TIGHT LIKE THE 12 BOLT BEARING COLLAR , BUT THEY OF COURSE CAN BE ,
USE A PIECE OF STEEL TUBING TO DRIVE THE BEARING BACK ON TO SEAT IT
Image
A big nut :)

Image
Old seal still in place but have cleaned it up. This area was full of oil/grease mixture.

Image
Just a pic looking inside the "axletube", Old seal still in place. Funny mirror effect inside.

Image
Heres a pic of the small wrench used to remove the nut that holds the bearing on the axle. Its sitting beside a 19mm one :) The big one is a 2 1/4" wrench.
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Postby BigSwede » Sat Nov 27, 2010 7:34 pm

cyberdog wrote:BTW BigSwede , u born in sweden and moved to US or just the nickname ? :)

My grandparents immigrated from Sweden...do you know the Karlsson family? :wink:
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Postby MarcusInMD » Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:44 am

I just did this about a year ago. Huge pain in the butt!

I took the axles to two different machine shops before I found a high performance shop that did a couple of these axles.

The first one came off with about 25 tons of pressure and lots of heat. The second one was not so forgiving....The mechanic said it took over 32 tons and about 1/2 an hour of heat to get it to let go. Finally when it let loose it about scared a half block around the place.

With over 200k miles on my trooper I will never do this again! EVER! :)
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Postby GEG » Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:12 am

I did my rear bearings on a 1997 Rodeo last year. I took mine all over to get someone to press them apart. No luck there. I ended up cutting the retainer and bearing off with a dremel and a chisel. The neighbor pressed the new seal, bearing, retainer and ABS ring back on.

On a Rodeo the axle bearings do run on the gear lube from the differential and a bad seal is the deal killer.

This is not a job for a guy with an unsteady hand. The bearing is right next to the seal race, and a slip will cost you an axle that will leak 90 weight.

GEG
1997 Rodeo LS 5 speed aisin hubs Work vehicle 150K
1996 Rodeo LS 5 speed aisin hubs Standby vehicle 202K
Both Rodeos are in great shape and are well maintained
2002 Suzuki Vitari 5 speed wifes daily driver
1992 Chevrolet 4x4 2500 pickup 5 speed Farm truck
GEG
Has a Trail Truck
 
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Postby trprluvr » Tue Dec 07, 2010 2:01 am

Dont know if it will help but search my post for a very similar situation that Jerry helped me with. Mine weren't nearly as bad a case of yours, but it was quite a job. You may to cut the sensor collar off.
1999 Trooper, 168,000 miles, I luv this Trooper ! Use it for hunting and 70 mile round trip to work every day. 2005 F-350 Superduty 4X4 Supercab W/6 Liter Diesel. LSD rear end and short bed, single wheels on back. Manual locking hubs, manual windows, and door locks...no carpet :) Warn 9500i winch. I love this truck yall !!!
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