SurferJoe wrote:I never knew that Isuzu used "C-type" GM rear ends. Hmmm. Interesting!
There is no clip in doing a 1996 Rodeo differential.
Gizmo42 wrote:There is no clip in doing a 1996 Rodeo differential.
Yeah, the D44 in 93+ rodeos is a whole different animal then the GM unit in his '92. I just had a shop do mine since I dont have a press. Was an expensive day though since I bought a Ruger KP944 .40 cal while waiting LOL.
sassee wrote:You'll have to remove the diff cover and take off the C-clip that holds the axle in place, then slide out the axle. Don't know what part of the country you are in but Auto Zone will loan you the axle bearing removal kit with slide hammer (Deposit required until they get it back). Other than that, a large socket will do to CAREFULLY drive new bearing into place (only drive the new bearing on the outside edge). Really is a simple job though.
SurferJoe wrote:If you have the cross shaft out and all, then sit on your butt and use the bottom of either foot and slam the axle in by smacking it on the outer flange - where the wheel studs are.
Use a hard bottom shoe.
You should hear the tinkle of the c-clip falling out into the pumpkin.
SurferJoe wrote:He got the axle c-clip out, but the bearing remains so it has to be a c-type. The bearing is hammered into the housing and not pressed onto the axle itself.
It requires a slide hammer with a special foot. The following pixs are of a FORD, sorry! But the moves are the same anyway.
SurferJoe wrote:What groove? Where? How Deep?
Take some pictures and post them here. This is getting interesting!
PS: I was hoping that you didn't smack that axle flange with a bare foot. Beer can cause that to happen, you know!
Your bearing/seal should not require pulling the backing plate either. You DO need a special puller head that acts like a Mollie bolt and toggles into the back side of the bearing and you can use a slide hammer to get it out.
If like a NORMAL GM C-type, then the seal and bearing are one piece and are serviced simultaneously.
SurferJoe wrote:Interesting that you had to loosen the backing plate to get the old parts out. Hmmmm!
Enn-i-way - the bearing you got may be for a repair-installation as they do stick out a little more - although I knew this guy who got the saver/bearing back into the same place the OE bearing went on a full-sized GMC Suburban. He then went out and bought a new/used differential housing!
NO noise is GOOD noise, so I'm thinkin' ya done it right!
I cannot see how a good bearing on one side would now make the vehicle pull at all. It's also NOT a good idea to pack a new axle bearing with cup grease (olde-fashioned term - make that: "fibrous bearing grease" nowadays!)
If you use fibrous bearing grease, then the 90wt differential lube will channel away from the areas where it needs to lubricate and flow with no restrictions.
What's wrong with the rear brakes? No leaks - plenty of meat - springs all there ? Unless you redacted the bad parts, I don't really see any need for a while yet.
Since I can see that you've been working on the passenger's side (in the US anyway), the shoes are on correctly too.
shuriken wrote:Hello everyone.
I performed a search using the term axleshaft and it brought me to this post. I have a 1992 Isuzu Pickup (2.3 carb, 150k miles) and I too have just failed inspection due to leaky axleshaft oil seals. This post has been very helpful. I do have a few questions that perhaps you all could help me with, though.
1. Is it OK to post questions about my (non-4wd) truck here? I looked for rules and didn't see any about this...
2. Does anyone know if my make/model requires removing the pressed steel plate on the rear differential housing to remove the bolt, pin, and clips so that the axleshafts can be removed? I wasn't able to see the inspection to see if there are retaining bolts on the hub plate on my truck and won't be able to look until tonight or tomorrow.... If my truck has the 4 bolts, this job should be less involving than if I have to go into the differential, right?
3. I was quoted like $500 (~8.3 hrs labor only) by the shop (local only, not an Isuzu dealer) to replace front pads, rear shoes, rear wheel bearings, and rear axleshaft oil seals. I have a Haynes manual. This job looks do-able, albeit messy. I'm no pro mechanic but I have done stuff like clutch, drive axles, timing belt, transmission replacement, brakes, alternators, etc. on my 84 Honda. There is a local auto-zone and NAPA from which I could rent tools. What am I in for as a first timer trying to do this job?
4. I've never worked on ABS brakes before. Is it best to let the shop replace pads and shoes?
Thanks in advance for the help.
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