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Full hydro steering complete (finally)

 
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Starchild
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Joined: 14 Oct 2003
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Location: Fernandina Beach, FL

PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:37 am    Post subject: Full hydro steering complete (finally) Reply with quote

This has been a work in progress for a while now, but it's finally moving again. My steering range was the main issue from my initial SAS setup that needed work. Since the Passport is a dedicated trail rig these days, I opted for a budget full hydro setup. I ended up trading my bent trailer axles for an orbital valve salvaged from a tractor. I added a stub steering shaft and a home made mounting bracket to get to this


I managed to find a steering shaft that matched the 27-spline Isuzu steering shaft, but the diameter was a little too large. I ended up grinding down the OD of the shaft and the ID of the steering shaft to make things work. Since this compromised the integrity of the spline connection, I cross drilled and bolted the connection, and ran a weld around for insurance. I went ahead and cut the stock steering shaft between the u-joint and the slip joint to make the work easier, not to mention the shaft had to be shortened an inch or two.

To reconnect the steering shaft, I beveled and butt welded the ends of the shaft, and added a clam shell with rosette welds.



I'm still using the stock PS pump, so I had to adapt the stock pressure line. The banjo fitting at the PS pump is a metric fitting that my local hydraulic shop couldn't match, so they cut off the end of the stock line and braised it onto a standard hose fitting.

I used the stock reservoir, since it has a decent volume, and ran the return line through a transmission cooler and spin on filter mounted in front of the radiator.



I just used basic hose clamps and transmission line for this setup between the orbital and reservoir. The stock supply line from the reservoir to the pump was reused.

I picked up an 8", 2"-dia. single ended, unbalanced agricultural style ram witch worked perfectly.


I used some D-ring mounts from Blue Torch Fab that worked perfectly to mount the ram between the tie rod and the new mount




The mount is 1.5"x.25 DOM tube, which I plated with 3/16. The ribs on the back are 1.5x.25




Everything mounted up




I finally got the system bled and took it for a test drive today and it works surprisingly well. I had it up to 35-40, and it felt very solid. It has a very different feel than a normal setup, and I was overcorrecting badly at first. I also noticed that if I turned the wheel too fast, the pump couldn't keep up, and seemed to cavitate, but for my purposes it's fine.

One of the things that convinced me to go this route is that I could more comfortably run a front auto locker rather than an ARB, so I installed a lock right in the front axle while I had the truck down Twisted Evil

I hope to get it out for some testing next weekend and I can't wait Mr. Green
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anubis
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Joined: 06 Aug 2006
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Location: Richmond

PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldnt it have been just as easy to make it a hydo assist setup. I didnt follow this earlier but I am very interested.

Good work, I would have thought that you would have run it directly to your high steer arm instead of to your tierod to increase strength. Seems like full hydro will bend that rod if you get it in a binding spot on the trail.
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Tad
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting setup. Do you know how much this cost you vs. the cost of a hydro-assist?

-Tad
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Starchild
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Joined: 14 Oct 2003
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Location: Fernandina Beach, FL

PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

anubis wrote:
Wouldnt it have been just as easy to make it a hydo assist setup. I didnt follow this earlier but I am very interested.

Good work, I would have thought that you would have run it directly to your high steer arm instead of to your tie rod to increase strength. Seems like full hydro will bend that rod if you get it in a binding spot on the trail.


Part of the problem I had was the steering geometry. My hi-steer arms were so long, that with the shorter stock pitman, I couldn’t come close to hitting the steering stops on either side. To do assist, I would have had to correct the geometry by redrilling and tapping the arms, and tap the steering box. Believe it or not, I think this was the easier option.

As far as the mounting of the ram, if I ran it directly to the knuckle, the tie rod would see the same amount of force transferring it to the other wheel. I debated mounting the ram lower on the tube and connecting to the stock tie rod location, but that would have made it vulnerable to damage.

Quote:
Interesting setup. Do you know how much this cost you vs. the cost of a hydro-assist?


Here is the break down:
ram - $100
hydraulic lines - $75
orbital - typically $350 new, but free via/trade
ram mounts - $50
steering shaft - $80
PS fluid - $20 (valvoline syn-power)

For assist, you would still have the cost of the ram, mounts, fluid, probably $30 for hydraulic lines, plus the cost of having the box tapped (at least $100).

so $325 for full hydro vs $300 assist my cost.

With the trade I made for the orbital, it made this very feasible. And it should make the front locker a lot less noticeable.

I would not recommend this setup for a street driven truck.

Andre
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bigpoppax2
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job Andre. I'm sure the full hydro will serve you well on your truck.

Nice job, fab work is very sharp. How about some lock to lock pis (or shall I say, end of the ram to the end of the ram)


Joe
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gearhead313
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was the lock to lock the only problem with the stock steering on teh SAS? I am planning my SAS now and hoped that the low steer on my waggy 44 would let it turn acceptible for daily driving.

Otherwise, I like how yours came out. Its always seemed tough to get the orbital to come out clean without re-engineering the wheel!
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squatch
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job Andre. Looks like you got everything way up out of harms way. TSC is a truck builders best friend. Thanks for pointing out that this is a trail rig. Prob not street legal in most states but cool on the rocks. Is this just like 1/4 turn of the wheel now each way? As in turn a little and hold till the front catches up?
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigpoppax2 wrote:
How about some lock to lock pis (or shall I say, end of the ram to the end of the ram)


Here you go




It goes a bit farther than what's shown, but I couldn't hold the wheel in place and take the pic. The length of the ram worked out perfect. It comes just short of hitting the stops on both sides. If the stops had hit before the ram bottomed out, I would have had to build spacers to limit the travel.

Quote:
Was the lock to lock the only problem with the stock steering on teh SAS? I am planning my SAS now and hoped that the low steer on my waggy 44 would let it turn acceptible for daily driving.


Other than the range (lock to lock) it worked fine. If your using the stock D44 steering mounts on the knuckle, I would measure to see how they compare to the stock Isuzu knuckles (center of ball joint to tie rod mount). With an open front, the stock setup should turn fine.

Andre
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bigpoppax2
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like it worked out perfect. Very good range.

Joe
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

squatch wrote:
Is this just like 1/4 turn of the wheel now each way? As in turn a little and hold till the front catches up?


Not really. It seems to react basically like a conventional system. Of course I need to do some more testing.
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my93rodeo
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome very well done
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Bansil
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool and glad to see no mailboxes or neighbors animals stuck in the grill and bumper,good job Cool
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gearhead313
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info. now get some footage wheeling that pig!!
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going testing on Sunday Cool
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got the chance to really put this system to the test. This is from a build/test day on our clubs obstacle course yesterday.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4154877821419992878

There is some footage of me doing my best Joe Darlington impression Wink

The steering worked great! And it's really nice to have all four wheels turning. I got hung on my cross member on the second obstacle, and ended up backing down. I tried it again later, and ended up shearing my front drivers side center pin and spitting out the degree shim.

Rodeo Guy came down for a while to check out some Florida wheeling. This is when we finally convinced someone to check the depth on the mud hole. We talked him into it by telling him to back in Laughing

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-633383334270559828

We had a bunch of rain this week, and they had recently dug out the hole and loosened up the bottom. That truck is on 42's.
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bigpoppax2
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like everything is working well. I doubt too many small diameter tired trucks attempted those obstacles.

Joe
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigpoppax2 wrote:
I doubt too many small diameter tired trucks attempted those obstacles.


Not really. There was one toy buggy on 37's that took the second one, but that was the property owner, and he knows that hill. Someone commented while I was on that obstacle, that it wasn't meant for most rigs with less than 40's.
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