Normal oil pressure 3.2L V6 93 Rodeo? Please help. Urgent ??

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Normal oil pressure 3.2L V6 93 Rodeo? Please help. Urgent ??

Postby Stuffy » Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:21 am

I just got my 93 Rodeo a few months ago as some of you may know. As it so happens, I looked at my oil pressure guage for the first time tonight. Oops? It's my first car, so I don't know what normal oil pressure is, but because it's 0 to 100, I think I have a problem.

At idle, [engine running (in drive) and me stopped, just clarifying here], my oil pressure guage reads what I eye-ball to be around 10lb/in^2. The only markings are 0, 30, 55, and 100, I think. When I am accelerating or moving or whatever, it seems to hover around 30-40lb/in^2.

Please tell me how bad this situation is. I was going to change my oil (whatever's in there now..) tomorrow and start using Shell Rotella 5W-40 diesel oil that I've been reading about on these forums and a Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter. Will I be okay doing that? Will it affect that oil pressure?

Note: I don't know how to read my dipstick. I've looked, and the color looks like.. oil. I'll take any advice I can get, and I'd really appreciate it.[/b][/u]


Update:

I learned to read my dipstick. I drained my oil. We estimate it poured out 2-3 quarts. (Yeah, it uses 6 quarts.) It was ridiculous. It stopped dripping after maybe 10 minutes. And it looked like mud. My engine starts instantly. It used to be a 3-6 second crank. My oil pressure is way up, in the range it's supposed to be in. I ended up putting a Shell 10w40, I couldn't find the Rotella 5w40 anywhere at all. Not Autozone, not even at the Shell station. Am I okay running that? And, is it likely or probable I've damaged my engine with the bad and low oil before? Previous owner must have been lying about the last oil change. Thanks again, guys.
Last edited by Stuffy on Thu Sep 13, 2007 6:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby mdocod » Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:56 am

your oil pressure sounds pretty normal for an isuzu, 10-15 psi at idle is fine at operating temp, should ramp up into the 40-60 range when you get on it.

when you check your oil with the stick, you are checking the level, not the color, color has very little if any meaning when dealing with engine oil. you need to pull the stick out with the engine off, wipe it off, then re-insert it, then pull it out again, and check where on the stick the oil comes up to., the stick should be marked with a full line, and a "low" line. the lower line on the stick indicates about 1qt low. you want to keep it between those 2 lines at all times. you need to do this on level ground. you don't want to go adding oil if you have no idea what you are doing, have someone who knows how to check oil go over it with you in person so you don't overfill your oil level.
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Postby Stuffy » Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:02 am

Thank God. It just seemed like it was hardly staying on the gauge, but I'm relieved to hear it's pretty good.

I'll be working with a friend tomorrow on the oil, he will show me firsthand where my oil stands and we will be careful not to overfill. Thank you so much.
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Postby Stuffy » Mon Sep 10, 2007 5:17 pm

Now, what if it's more like 3-5lb/in^2 while I'm idling and 25-30lb/in^2 while I'm driving? I think I'll just start out with the oil change and see what it puts me? It couldn't get any lower..
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Postby XtremeAaron » Mon Sep 10, 2007 5:40 pm

Hell my oil pressure gage shoots to over 245 as soon as i startup. never changes.
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Postby mdocod » Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:02 pm

the pressure at idle is going to vary depending on the viscosity of the oil at the time. When you first turn on your engine cold, the oil is cold and thick and will be hard to pump and you will read high oil pressure as a result. As the oil heats up, it thins down and flows more freely, resulting in lower oil pressure readings.

3-5psi is very common when you put a 5w30 dino oil in an isuzu, then run it for a few thousand miles. Standard (non-synthetic) 5w30 will generally shear down to about a 10w20 within the first 1-3 thousand miles, the result is lower oil pressure at idle on older engine oil. also keep in mind that the little oil gage on an isuzu dash isn't exactly a finely tuned instrument, it will vary from vehicle to vehicle a bit.....

If you switch to a synthetic 5w40, you will probably see an overall increase in oil pressure. and it should stay more consistent as you rack up miles on the oil.
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Postby Stuffy » Thu Sep 13, 2007 3:37 pm

Updated this thread. See first post.
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Postby mdocod » Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:30 am

well, how many miles had you gone since buying it... cause isuzus are notorious burners, many of them burn a qt every 300 miles. ideally with proper care you can get the burners down to around 1qt per thousand or better, which is considered "within reason" for an isuzu... so keep in mind that you need to be checking oil regularly, make it something you do every time you fill up with gas until you are familiar with it's consumption.

If the oil draining out looked like mud, and it only drained out 2-3qts, then some damage has probably been done, but don't fret, most engines experience a similar situation at some point in their lives, if it didn't seize up, then you should be able to keep it running smooth for years... I would seriously suggest only running this next oil change for about 1000-2000 miles, to help clean up after what the oil before probably left behind.
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Postby Ramblin Fever » Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:31 am

mdocod - I've been following your posts for quite some time; but I've lost track of what kind/brand of oil & filter you're running in your Zu.
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Postby mdocod » Sun Sep 16, 2007 4:26 am

My zu likes the 0w30 German Castrol Syntec. I bought a bunch of it a few years back on sale (like 75qts or so) after trying it out and liking it, I managed to get in on it while it was still the older formulation that actually poors with a green tint to it (look for posts about green GC on bobistheoilguy for more random information, the stuff has quite a following). The new formulation has some minor additive adjustments but appears to also be very well formulated with a proprietary "special" base stock(like it's predecessor). poors golden brown like most oils though. Trick to buying this stuff is to make sure you are getting bottles that say "made in germany" on the back. The USA made version is made with a lesser quality base stock (group III) and was made many years ago but is still on the shelves in some places. You'll really only find this stuff at some autozones, European car dealers, and some specialty shops here in the states. Don't let the 0w scare ya, at operating temp this 30wt oil is actually on the heavy end of the 30wt range, bordering on 40wt classification, the 0w rating means that it will flow better when cold than other 5w and 10w types, which is a good thing, helps keep the pesky 3.2L SOHC hydraulic lash adjusters quiet in the morning.

As far as filters go, I try to run Purolator Pure-1 or MotorCraft filters as they are the easiest for me to find, and have the best quality to price ratio. Main considerations on filter are as follows, in order of importance IMO:

1. Properly designed by-pass, no metal tension plate "poppers," stick to filters with a spring loaded bypass, this will ensure that the bypass can open and close dynamically, spring loaded by-passes are also much more reliable, the "pop" type are prone to getting stuck open if they do pop. (look in the bottom of a fram for an example of a bad pop-style by-pass). IMO this is the most important part of the filter, because if it fails open, then it doesn't matter how good the rest of the filter is constructed, you're no longer going to be filtering your oil.
2. Well designed anti-drain-back valve. Most filters have a rubber 1-way valve positioned just behind the inlet holes on the filter. It's pretty hard to describe the difference between a good and bad one, but I can tell you from experience, that a poorly designed anti-drainback valve will, on many engines, be the main cause of morning valve chatter (because the engine starts but has to pump oil back up into the head because the anti-drain-back valve allowed it to drain back down during the night, which also means that dirty oil from the dirty side of the filter was allowed to drain back into clean oil, yay)
3. Everything else about the construction can kinda get lumped into 1 consideration as it is mostly just picky little stuff that won't have any significant effect, and will very rarely be a failure point... but better quality filters will generally have the following key elements: Stiffer can, and stiffer internal "tube" support for the filter media, larger and/or more inlet holes, larger and/or more filter "tube" exit holes (the little holes you see on the inside walls looking down through the large hole in the middle), more filter media and/or higher quality media (more pleats (folds)), metal end-cap construction with good quality adhesives used to secure the media to the end-caps, etc etc..

The Pure-Ones and Motorcrafts score well in most of these considerations. But I think it's worth mentioning, that even fram filters, which look like trash if you tear one down and rate it based on what I said above, have a very low occurrence of failure. I would personally rather spend $2 on a supertech at walmart than give fram more money for a lower quality product.

Other filters worth buying IMO: Napa Gold, Wix, Mobil 1. Not sure what else you might find in your area so I'll leave it at that.
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