My zu likes the 0w30 German Castrol Syntec. I bought a bunch of it a few years back on sale (like 75qts or so) after trying it out and liking it, I managed to get in on it while it was still the older formulation that actually poors with a green tint to it (look for posts about green GC on bobistheoilguy for more random information, the stuff has quite a following). The new formulation has some minor additive adjustments but appears to also be very well formulated with a proprietary "special" base stock(like it's predecessor). poors golden brown like most oils though. Trick to buying this stuff is to make sure you are getting bottles that say "made in germany" on the back. The USA made version is made with a lesser quality base stock (group III) and was made many years ago but is still on the shelves in some places. You'll really only find this stuff at some autozones, European car dealers, and some specialty shops here in the states. Don't let the 0w scare ya, at operating temp this 30wt oil is actually on the heavy end of the 30wt range, bordering on 40wt classification, the 0w rating means that it will flow better when cold than other 5w and 10w types, which is a good thing, helps keep the pesky 3.2L SOHC hydraulic lash adjusters quiet in the morning.
As far as filters go, I try to run Purolator Pure-1 or MotorCraft filters as they are the easiest for me to find, and have the best quality to price ratio. Main considerations on filter are as follows, in order of importance IMO:
1. Properly designed by-pass, no metal tension plate "poppers," stick to filters with a spring loaded bypass, this will ensure that the bypass can open and close dynamically, spring loaded by-passes are also much more reliable, the "pop" type are prone to getting stuck open if they do pop. (look in the bottom of a fram for an example of a bad pop-style by-pass). IMO this is the most important part of the filter, because if it fails open, then it doesn't matter how good the rest of the filter is constructed, you're no longer going to be filtering your oil.
2. Well designed anti-drain-back valve. Most filters have a rubber 1-way valve positioned just behind the inlet holes on the filter. It's pretty hard to describe the difference between a good and bad one, but I can tell you from experience, that a poorly designed anti-drainback valve will, on many engines, be the main cause of morning valve chatter (because the engine starts but has to pump oil back up into the head because the anti-drain-back valve allowed it to drain back down during the night, which also means that dirty oil from the dirty side of the filter was allowed to drain back into clean oil, yay)
3. Everything else about the construction can kinda get lumped into 1 consideration as it is mostly just picky little stuff that won't have any significant effect, and will very rarely be a failure point... but better quality filters will generally have the following key elements: Stiffer can, and stiffer internal "tube" support for the filter media, larger and/or more inlet holes, larger and/or more filter "tube" exit holes (the little holes you see on the inside walls looking down through the large hole in the middle), more filter media and/or higher quality media (more pleats (folds)), metal end-cap construction with good quality adhesives used to secure the media to the end-caps, etc etc..
The Pure-Ones and Motorcrafts score well in most of these considerations. But I think it's worth mentioning, that even fram filters, which look like trash if you tear one down and rate it based on what I said above, have a very low occurrence of failure. I would personally rather spend $2 on a supertech at walmart than give fram more money for a lower quality product.
Other filters worth buying IMO: Napa Gold, Wix, Mobil 1. Not sure what else you might find in your area so I'll leave it at that.
95.0 rodeo, 3" lift, trooper front suspension/axles/tie-rods, 1.25" diff drop, terra-low 3:1, Warn premium manual hubs, custom rear drive-shaft, 235/85-16 Duratrack, ~240 billion miles and counting,