Tad wrote:So there's more info already:
The 4L30E is one inch longer than the Aisin. That's good news I suppose. I'm not sure if the rear shaft is long enough for the trail, but it should be just fine for the street. I had visions of the Aisin being 5 inches longer and requiring a new shaft even to get rolling.
I'm also going to swap in the console from the 99 Trooper that I parted out. It has much better cup holders
I spent some time tonight taking apart the console. Here is the original 94 console:
Here it is without the plastic cover. The white wires I've added as well as the junction box in front of the shifters.
Here's the naked floor. Can you tell where the gasket ended? The cable near the top right prevents someone from removing the key unless the vehicle is in park. The 88 that I got the trans from didn't have that feature. I'm not sure if I care to re-enable it.
Here's a test-fit of the 88 console on the floor:
I'm swapping to the older shifter console for two reasons. First of all the t-case on the Aisin is shifted with a cable. (it is also SOTF, including into 4-low). The second reason is that the 4L30E had the shifter on the left side of the trans and the Aisin has it on the right side. I could have cut and bent the factory shifter lever to fit on the right side of the trans, but I'd still not have a 4wd shifter. The 4L30E also has one more physical shifter position. That wouldn't have been a big deal but this way the labels on the shifter will be correct.
I'm a bit tired right now but there's more to come tomorrow.
nfpgasmask wrote: I think it looks like a robot penis, but then again, I have a sick mind.
JBH1989 wrote:Is it possible to bolt in the Toyota 5spd? I know it would take a lot more electrical work, but hey, anything's possible, right?
Also, are you gonna use Dexron or the T-IV in there? Has anyone tried the T-IV to see if it makes any differences?
EDIT: The site mentions he could do it if there is enough interest... hmmm
So does that controller connect between the factory computer and the transmission or what? I'm very intrigued, this sounds awesome.
Tad wrote:JBH1989 wrote:...
I'm going to use Dexron III. I believe that was what was in it before. ...
One step forward, two steps back.
In my haste I tightened the stiff bolt and thought that it would pull in. What it did was pull out the first 4 or 5 threads in the hole.
Tad wrote:I have good news to report today. When the dowel pins installed in the bell housing instead of the engine it slid right together today.
Here is a pic of the test fit of the bellhousing and torque converter:
The torque converter spins freely and has plenty of clearance. I bolted the bellhousing to the engine but I need to get some spacers and longer bolts for the torque converter.
Now I'm working on the other "smaller" issues. The list as I see it:
Make a new trans tunnel to cover the large hole that the old shifter left.
Cut new hole for the new shifter
make a shim to level the new shifter
connect shifter linkage
connect shifter wiring
connect range sensor wiring. I'd like the reverse and dash lights to work as they should
bend, install and connect cooler lines
install torque converter bolts
install front dust shield
make and install bottom dust shield
run breather lines and wires up into engine compartment
bend and install dipstick tube
figure out how to install throttle cable
install heli-coils into crossmember bolt holes
figure out if my skid plates are going to fit
reinstall front crossmember
change FL1 transmission filter and see if I can find the leak
Here's the throttle cable pointed at the throttle. It won't reach the throttle body.
However my other idea is to connect it to the accelerator pedal. I think that I can drill a hole right next to the factory accelerator cable and figure out a way to fix the end of the cable to the pedal lever. Here is me holding the transmission cable near the accelerator cable:
On to crossmembers. Here is the 2.6L crossmember held on with 2 bolts (only 2 holes line up):
Here is the 4L30 crossmember:
The mount sits on the crossmember! All I'll have to do is weld a small plate onto the back of the crossmember and drill two holes in it. I'll also drill a hole with a hole-saw in the crossmember to give access to the t-case pan drain. You can see the drain bolt above the crossmember in the photo above.
Here's a view from the bottom:
I'll probably trim the front of the crossmember to in order to have better access to the pan bolts.
Here is how far the t-case sits below the crossmember:
I've test held a driveshaft up front and it clears the 4L30E crossmember
Found this on the rear diff:
Anyone want to buy a used 4L30E?
I didn't take a pic but before I installed the tranny I extended the breathers. The t-case breather is a 1/8" BPT fitting so it was easy to thread in a 1/8" NPT elbow and then barb fitting for a hose. The transmission has a plastic barb near the bellhousing so it was replaced too.
Currently the dipstick looks like the hardest problem. It looks to want to go right through the exhaust manifold.
Off to get helicoils, spacers and longer torque converter bolts.
JLEMOND wrote:TAD TWO THINGS , BEFORE YOU SET THE TRANS DOWN FOR THE FINAL BOLT UP TAKE A CLOSE LOOK AT THE TRANS MOUNT WHERE THE MOUN ITSELF GOES UP INTO THE BRACKET THE UPPER PORTION , THOSE THINGS AR E BAD ABOUT COLLAPSING, I USUALLY WEDGE A PIECE OF 3/4 INCH HEATER HOSE IN BETWEEN THE AREAR WHERE IT IS HITTING THE BRACK AND IT WILL LAST FOR YEARS , ALLSO TAKE A LOOK AT THE DRIVE SHAFT MOUNTING BOLTS FROM THE LOOKS OF THE PIX THEY MAY BE THE RIGHT LENGTH AND THEY ARE SUPER STRONG AND THEY ARE THE RIGHT THRED PITCH, IF THEY WILL WORK LET ME KNOW AND I WILL SEND YOU SOME ,YOU CAN USE YOUR BOLT IN THE CONVERTOR AND I WILL REPLACE THEM FOR YOU , FOR THE DRIVE SHAFT JERRY
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