Let the transmission swap begin

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Let the transmission swap begin

Postby Tad » Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:36 pm

After putting this off for about 9 months longer than I had planned to, I dug into my transmission swap today.

For some background: My truck was apparently born with genes that reject 4L30Es. I bought the truck with 160k miles. At around 140k miles the previous owner had a transmission rebuilt to the tune of $2500. In the first of two trips to Joe's house where I've lost transmissions, the transmission in my 94 Trooper failed at 193k miles. Yuck. My best guess is that the pump failed. I was driving along the highway and noticed that something was funny. as I slowed I watched the trans temp gauge rise up into the 300+ degree range. It was done.

I drive around 25k miles per year so I decided that I would not opt for another $2500 rebuild. I bought a $500 ebay transmission from a 99 Rodeo and spent another $250 on misc parts during the swap. The swap also necessitated replacing most of the exhaust system because of how it came apart during the swap.

I'm worried that this one is going to die as well. I can easily heat it up into the 225-250 degree range and it has some shift flare between 1 and 2.

The options are few for swaps. A 700R4 can be made to fit. The biggest problem with them is that they were never put in an Isuzu so there are some custom parts that need to be worked out. The transfer case for one. Andre used the Dana 300 in his. He did have clearance problems with the torsion bar though. Another option is the mau5 5-speed. I'm ok with that, but I do prefer the auto off-road and my wife has a thing about no cars with more than two pedals. She is very understanding and flexible regarding this hobby, so I'm happy to abide by her request. (I'd break the request for a diesel G-Wagen though).

I've selected another transmission though. I picked the Aisin A340H. It has been used in a number of vehicles including 1st gen Troopers, a bunch of Toyotas, Jeeps, etc. I picked one from a Trooper because of it's low low-range. Somewhere around 2.6 or 2.7 to one.

To mate this to the 6VD1 I was able to use the bell housing from a 2004 Isuzu Rodeo. Isuzu went back to the A340 for the 2004 Rodeo (after leaving GM ownership behind). It wasn't a cheap item but it makes things fit. I'm also using the crank spacer from a 2.6L Trooper. This is what centers the torque converter on the crankshaft.

For control I'll be using buttons initially. One for upshift and one for downshift. I have a TCM from a first gen Trooper and I might wire it up some day. Then again I might not care.

So this morning I dug in. Things went much faster this time. Unlike last time I didn't have to remove the exhaust. Not even one bolt. I had the shop that built it run the pipe around behind the transmission, instead of crossing under it. I also didn't remove the starter. That saved the good part of an hour itself.


Before removing it I used a magnetic angle meter to measure the angle of the output flange. This is so that I can get the new output flange at the same angle and hopefully not have any driveshaft vibes.


I was able to access the torque converter bolts by removing the dust shield from the bell housing. To do that I had to remove the brace on the passenger side of the engine. This brace bolts to the side of the block with 2 bolts and the transmission with one or two bell housing bolts.

So now I have the transmission out.
Image

Let me tell you about mud though. There was more oily mud than you can shake a stick at. It will make me think twice before I hit the mud holes again.

After it was out I decided to get into some of the wiring. I pulled the stock harness apart so that I could find things like the O2 sensor wires and speed sensor wires. I still need to dig out the 4wd light wires and the wires for the various gears (most notable reverse which controls the backup lights). Here are two of the three harnesses for the old transmission:
Image

After a shower and some dinner I'm going to go out and start taking apart the console. I'll continue to post as this project progresses.

-Tad
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Postby Tad » Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:29 pm

So there's more info already:

The 4L30E is one inch longer than the Aisin. That's good news I suppose. I'm not sure if the rear shaft is long enough for the trail, but it should be just fine for the street. I had visions of the Aisin being 5 inches longer and requiring a new shaft even to get rolling.

I'm also going to swap in the console from the 99 Trooper that I parted out. It has much better cup holders :)

I spent some time tonight taking apart the console. Here is the original 94 console:
Image

Here it is without the plastic cover. The white wires I've added as well as the junction box in front of the shifters.
Image

Here's the naked floor. Can you tell where the gasket ended? The cable near the top right prevents someone from removing the key unless the vehicle is in park. The 88 that I got the trans from didn't have that feature. I'm not sure if I care to re-enable it.
Image

Here's a test-fit of the 88 console on the floor:
Image

I'm swapping to the older shifter console for two reasons. First of all the t-case on the Aisin is shifted with a cable. (it is also SOTF, including into 4-low). The second reason is that the 4L30E had the shifter on the left side of the trans and the Aisin has it on the right side. I could have cut and bent the factory shifter lever to fit on the right side of the trans, but I'd still not have a 4wd shifter. The 4L30E also has one more physical shifter position. That wouldn't have been a big deal but this way the labels on the shifter will be correct.

I'm a bit tired right now but there's more to come tomorrow.

-Tad
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Postby anivek » Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:12 pm

thats the same shifter as my 89, did you have to take off the handle at any time? i cant seen to get mine off,
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Postby Tad » Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:18 pm

Sure didn't. I'll post back if I do, or if I get some indication of how to do so.

-Tad
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Postby JLEMOND » Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:22 pm

Tad wrote:So there's more info already:

The 4L30E is one inch longer than the Aisin. That's good news I suppose. I'm not sure if the rear shaft is long enough for the trail, but it should be just fine for the street. I had visions of the Aisin being 5 inches longer and requiring a new shaft even to get rolling.

I'm also going to swap in the console from the 99 Trooper that I parted out. It has much better cup holders :)

I spent some time tonight taking apart the console. Here is the original 94 console:

Here it is without the plastic cover. The white wires I've added as well as the junction box in front of the shifters.

Here's the naked floor. Can you tell where the gasket ended? The cable near the top right prevents someone from removing the key unless the vehicle is in park. The 88 that I got the trans from didn't have that feature. I'm not sure if I care to re-enable it.

Here's a test-fit of the 88 console on the floor:

I'm swapping to the older shifter console for two reasons. First of all the t-case on the Aisin is shifted with a cable. (it is also SOTF, including into 4-low). The second reason is that the 4L30E had the shifter on the left side of the trans and the Aisin has it on the right side. I could have cut and bent the factory shifter lever to fit on the right side of the trans, but I'd still not have a 4wd shifter. The 4L30E also has one more physical shifter position. That wouldn't have been a big deal but this way the labels on the shifter will be correct.

I'm a bit tired right now but there's more to come tomorrow.

-Tad


TAD I AM PUTTING THE WIRING MANUAL IN THE MAIL TOMORROW MORN WITH THE RELAY LEVER , GIVE ME A CALL IF YOU GET STUCK, NOT IN THE MUD THOUGH ,, JERRY
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Postby m-79_grenadier » Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:48 am

Hmm.....

Thats the same setup thats in my 88 SE. Ive always thought the transmission in it was actually a 4l30E and it was just the transfer case that was made by aisin-warner. Youll be impressd with the gearing in that bad boy Tad. 8) Trust me here, that is a bullet proof transercase. :wink: I let my friend (newbie LOL) wheel my 88 when it still had the motor in it, and he shifted it (while moving) from 4high to 4l climbing down a 30deg. plus downgrade. Scared me to death with the wham sound it made, but it never batted an eye the rest of the day. It was absolutely peachy on the way home too!

I dont really remember if the 4l30e is flanged on the tailshaft, or has a slip yolk like the MUAs do. Because on my 88 the driveline is flanged on both ends, and has the slip yolk right in front of the 3rd member. This is probably alot better because it looks as if the splines and yolks are bigger and would give you alot more slip room than a normal slip yolk on the tail. Not sure how 2nd gen troopers are set up, but im sure this is the setup for these transmissions. Oh, and when the carrier bearing goes out on these they tend to rumble around alot on takeoff! :P

Also, have you figured out how youre going to route the the cooling lines? There should be two of them mounted vertically on the passenger side of the transmission probably the same as the 4l30e. I think theres one set of brackets for them on the motor mount, and one hooked to the AC tensioner bracket for the 2.6l Just be careful not to bend the lines around too much. Theres two compression fittings where the lines elbow out of the transmission, and they tend to leak like a stuck pig if you mess with the lines too much LOL! I must have retightened the ones on mine a half a dozen times already. Need some new ferrules now. :roll:
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Postby Bansil » Tue Sep 04, 2007 7:45 am

keep it up,and good luck Tad,I'll probabley be needing this this winter.
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Postby timrkopi » Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:50 am

Is that AW340 a 3 speed or a 4 speed.

I am assuming 3 speed. If so does AW make a 4 speed version of that
trans pre 04'. AW340L
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Postby Starchild » Tue Sep 04, 2007 12:18 pm

Looking good Tad. Are you just replacing the TCM with the new one, and adapting the existing wiring?

I've never seen that shifter configuration before.

Glad to see you finally getting this project started.

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Postby bigpoppax2 » Tue Sep 04, 2007 12:42 pm

Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.

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Postby Tad » Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:50 pm

It's technically a 3 speed with overdrive, just like the 4L30E, but that's usually referred to as a 4-speed. Toyota used a 5-speed auto with the same base design in some late model Tacomas, etc.

I have two TCUs (one in case I toast the other) that I do plan on hooking up at some point. The initial test-drives will be with it shifted manually. By manually I mean with the shifter. That will give me 1st, 2nd and 4th. I won't have OD lockup either. I've ordered one of these: http://awshifting.com/index.html and will be using it as the primary shifter. I'll be using the D, 3, 2, L lights in the console to indicate which gear I'm in. I'll have a simple toggle to begin with but I've purchased a steering wheel adapter that will let me mount an aftermarket wheel with up/down buttons on the spokes. I'd really like paddles behind the wheel but I haven't come up with a good solution to mount them yet. Another shifter option is a simple 2-way joystick mounted in the center console. I may do that. Shifter selection isn't my top priority right now.

I have an AW4 (the jeep version) and the Dana 300 will bolt right to it. If this transmission turns out to be a dud I may put it in. I'd still have to deal with the clearance issues that Andre had.

I'm off to the store now to buy hose for my breathers (it sure is easier installing them with the top of the tranny exposed) and a pulled for the pilot bushing. I would have used the grease method to remove it but all that I can find that fits snugly inside the bushing is the old torque converter and I'm not excited about hammering it into the back of my engine.

I also drained the A340H. I sucked out around 2 gallons and didn't even get to the transfer case.

More later.

-Tad
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Postby ZuCruTrooper2 » Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:54 pm

Is it possible to bolt in the Toyota 5spd? I know it would take a lot more electrical work, but hey, anything's possible, right?

Also, are you gonna use Dexron or the T-IV in there? Has anyone tried the T-IV to see if it makes any differences?

EDIT: The site mentions he could do it if there is enough interest... hmmm

So does that controller connect between the factory computer and the transmission or what? I'm very intrigued, this sounds awesome.
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Postby timrkopi » Tue Sep 04, 2007 6:46 pm

As a matter of interest the 5 speed AW340 in the Tacomas, I have heard,
some how mashes 2 and 3 together to get to get the extra speed. I do
not know where they put it though. For Eg between 3 and 4, making 4
the new 5.

That is sooo GM.

Is a 340 stronger than the 700R
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Postby J-dawg » Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:25 pm

I'm not an expert by any means, but based on what I've read about Toyota's 5 ratios from the AW340 transmission: So if you think of the "5 speed" AW340 as a 3 speed with a separate overdrive unit, it kind of helps. What Toyota did wasn't add another physical gear in the transmission, but rather "create" a new 3rd gear ratio by engaging the overdrive unit when in 2nd gear. The real trick is that they have to disengage the overdrive *AND* shift into 4th (really, the 3rd "physical" gear) simultaneously. Electronic trickery and some engine management integration helped out there. So the shift pattern looks like this:

1st = 1st gear + NO overdrive
2nd = 2nd gear + NO overdrive
3rd = 2nd gear + overdrive
4th = 3rd gear + NO overdrive
5th = 3rd gear + overdrive

It doesn't seem like this could be practically adapted to Troopers because of the necessary integrated engine management. I mean, anything is possible with enough $$, time, or both, but it doesn't seem practical.
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Postby Tad » Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:40 pm

JBH1989 wrote:Is it possible to bolt in the Toyota 5spd? I know it would take a lot more electrical work, but hey, anything's possible, right?

Also, are you gonna use Dexron or the T-IV in there? Has anyone tried the T-IV to see if it makes any differences?

EDIT: The site mentions he could do it if there is enough interest... hmmm

So does that controller connect between the factory computer and the transmission or what? I'm very intrigued, this sounds awesome.


The issue with the later versions that I've found is that they went from a throttle cable to a duty-cycle solenoid to control the line pressure. While that is a problem that can be fixed, it isn't nearly as simple as the switch approach to controlling the earlier models.

I'm going to use Dexron III. I believe that was what was in it before.

In a vehicle that came with one of these Aisins, the new module goes between the computer and the transmission, interrupting the 3 solenoid wires. Then the module turns on the three in the right combinations to get all 6 possible combinations (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd w/TC lockup, 4th, 4th w/TC lockup).

I hope that it will be awesome!

-Tad
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Postby trooperbc » Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:40 pm

Tad wrote:
JBH1989 wrote:...

I'm going to use Dexron III. I believe that was what was in it before. ...
-Tad


only Dexron III is no longer being licensed by GM, which means there is no more Dexron III spec approved and licensed etc by GM. there are many ATF's that purport to be for applications that previously called for Dexron III. some of them seem to say they are the Dexron III specs, others are clearly not. and in any case, you are totally at the mercy of the ATF seller as to if they really are adhereing to the old DexronIII specs.

GM has a new Dexron -- Dexron VI, which they created for their new type of clutch design. Dexron VI is backward compatible. Dexron VI costs a bunch more too.

but, do you want to do all this work and put in a 'maybe Dexron III'?

//bc

p.s. thanks for the writeups btw...

//bc

P.S. edit add... here are a couple of links that i saved to my favorites when i was researching the whole dexronIII, dexronVI thing
from gm itself
http://www.gm.com/explore/technology/gm ... 31MY07.doc
also
http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article0 ... ?x=b11,0,w

also andrea (she) had an exchange with jerry on here whether to use dexronIII or isuzuATF in her aisin trans, that may be apply to you
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic ... ight=aisin

hth
//bc
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Postby Tad » Wed Sep 05, 2007 7:14 pm

One step forward, two steps back.

I was doing some pre-assembly this morning when I discovered that I was missing a part. The 2.6 Trooper uses a spacer between the crankshaft and the flex plate. This spacer is also the bushing that centers the torque converter. On the 3.5 there is a bushing pressed into the crankshaft that centers the torque converter. The 4L30 has a much smaller snout on the torque converter than the A340H does. This meant that I couldn't use the bushing that came with the truck. I also couldn't use the 2.6L spacer as it would space the flexplate out approx 1" too far.

So with the old bushing and 2.6 spacer in hand we headed out to find a machine shop. Seeing that the consumer oriented "blue collar" service industry in this area has pretty much evaporated I wasn't holding my breath. I did find reference to one machine shop, but they "wouldn't do something like this." We also received a reference to a tool and die cutter. The tech there agreed to do the work. He bored out the center of the bushing to match the size of the 2.6" spacer bore. $70 + $10 for lunch. It was money well spent. He even chamfered the edges too!

Side Note: I also had him turn down the outside of the bushing by about 1 thousandth. This is because the factory must use a press to install those bushings. I was straining on the wrench that I used to tighten the bearing puller to get it out. I was pretty sure that I didn't have a chance of getting it back in.

So I put the shaved and bored bushing in the freezer and changed back into my dirty clothes. I put anti-seize on the crank and the spacer and gently tapped it into place. I also remembered to move the dowel pin that was stuck in the 4L30 back into the engine.

After working for about 45mins gently jacking up the tranny we attempted to get it to mate with the engine. Getting the torque converter started in the hole wasn't very hard, but we ran into issues getting the transmission snug up against the engine. We pulled and pushed and pried and turned and pushed some more. Finally when it was about 1/8" of an inch out I started a few bolts. One was stiff and only went in a few turns by hand. It was clearly started though. We pushed and pulled and pried and pushed and pulled some again. In my haste I tightened the stiff bolt and thought that it would pull in. What it did was pull out the first 4 or 5 threads in the hole. The bolt still has 6-7 threads left though and it is a 14x1.75 bolt so I"m not too worried, just pissed for having done that.

So we dropped the transmission and found that the dowel pins really need to be installed in the bellhousing first to ensure that they are straight. The nose on the torque converter is also VERY snug in the bushing.

Tomorrow morning we start again early. It looks as though the 4L30 crossmember won't work due to T-Case clearance. I'll use the 88 Trooper crossmember and figure out how to mount it to the frame. Interestingly it is longer than the 94 Trooper crossmember by about 5".

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Postby Starchild » Wed Sep 05, 2007 7:56 pm

One step forward, two steps back.


That sounds about right :wink:

I can't count the number of times I had to pull the transmission back and forth. I hope you have a good trans jack. It's worth it for a job like this.

The snout of the TC wasn't that tight in my setup, but make sure it's not bottoming out.

In my haste I tightened the stiff bolt and thought that it would pull in. What it did was pull out the first 4 or 5 threads in the hole.


I think I did the same thing with at least one of the bellhousing bolts :roll:
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Postby bigpoppax2 » Wed Sep 05, 2007 9:32 pm

It's a crapshoot when you try to pull stuff together with the bolt.

Sounds like you jumped a few good sized hurdels today. Keep blazing the trail.

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Postby ZuCruTrooper2 » Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:22 pm

Well, good luck Tad. Keep us updated. EVERY DAY!

Seriously, I'm a sucker for details and info and stuff on projects like this. Really, I am.

So feel free to get into the blood and guts of everything! lol

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Postby Tad » Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:40 pm

I have good news to report today. When the dowel pins installed in the bell housing instead of the engine it slid right together today.

Here is a pic of the test fit of the bellhousing and torque converter:
Image

The torque converter spins freely and has plenty of clearance. I bolted the bellhousing to the engine but I need to get some spacers and longer bolts for the torque converter.

Image

Now I'm working on the other "smaller" issues. The list as I see it:
Make a new trans tunnel to cover the large hole that the old shifter left.
Cut new hole for the new shifter
make a shim to level the new shifter
connect shifter linkage
connect shifter wiring
connect range sensor wiring. I'd like the reverse and dash lights to work as they should
bend, install and connect cooler lines
install torque converter bolts
install front dust shield
make and install bottom dust shield
install driveshafts
run breather lines and wires up into engine compartment
bend and install dipstick tube
figure out how to install throttle cable
extend crossmember
install heli-coils into crossmember bolt holes
figure out if my skid plates are going to fit
reinstall front crossmember
change FL1 transmission filter and see if I can find the leak
fill transmission

Here's the throttle cable pointed at the throttle. It won't reach the throttle body.
Image

However my other idea is to connect it to the accelerator pedal. I think that I can drill a hole right next to the factory accelerator cable and figure out a way to fix the end of the cable to the pedal lever. Here is me holding the transmission cable near the accelerator cable:
Image

On to crossmembers. Here is the 2.6L crossmember held on with 2 bolts (only 2 holes line up):
Image

Image

Here is the 4L30 crossmember:
Image

The mount sits on the crossmember! All I'll have to do is weld a small plate onto the back of the crossmember and drill two holes in it. I'll also drill a hole with a hole-saw in the crossmember to give access to the t-case pan drain. You can see the drain bolt above the crossmember in the photo above.

Here's a view from the bottom:
Image
I'll probably trim the front of the crossmember to in order to have better access to the pan bolts.

Here is how far the t-case sits below the crossmember:
Image

I've test held a driveshaft up front and it clears the 4L30E crossmember

Found this on the rear diff:
Image

OOps!

Anyone want to buy a used 4L30E?

I didn't take a pic but before I installed the tranny I extended the breathers. The t-case breather is a 1/8" BPT fitting so it was easy to thread in a 1/8" NPT elbow and then barb fitting for a hose. The transmission has a plastic barb near the bellhousing so it was replaced too.

Currently the dipstick looks like the hardest problem. It looks to want to go right through the exhaust manifold.

Off to get helicoils, spacers and longer torque converter bolts.

-Tad
tad@planetisuzoo.com
http://www.planetisuzoo.com
2001 Trooper - 4.77s, 3xARB, OME 919HD springs. 255x85 Maxxis Bighorn MTs
1999 Rodeo - rebuilt DD
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Postby JLEMOND » Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:24 pm

Tad wrote:I have good news to report today. When the dowel pins installed in the bell housing instead of the engine it slid right together today.

Here is a pic of the test fit of the bellhousing and torque converter:

The torque converter spins freely and has plenty of clearance. I bolted the bellhousing to the engine but I need to get some spacers and longer bolts for the torque converter.

Now I'm working on the other "smaller" issues. The list as I see it:
Make a new trans tunnel to cover the large hole that the old shifter left.
Cut new hole for the new shifter
make a shim to level the new shifter
connect shifter linkage
connect shifter wiring
connect range sensor wiring. I'd like the reverse and dash lights to work as they should
bend, install and connect cooler lines
install torque converter bolts
install front dust shield
make and install bottom dust shield
install driveshafts
run breather lines and wires up into engine compartment
bend and install dipstick tube
figure out how to install throttle cable
extend crossmember
install heli-coils into crossmember bolt holes
figure out if my skid plates are going to fit
reinstall front crossmember
change FL1 transmission filter and see if I can find the leak
fill transmission

Here's the throttle cable pointed at the throttle. It won't reach the throttle body.

However my other idea is to connect it to the accelerator pedal. I think that I can drill a hole right next to the factory accelerator cable and figure out a way to fix the end of the cable to the pedal lever. Here is me holding the transmission cable near the accelerator cable:

On to crossmembers. Here is the 2.6L crossmember held on with 2 bolts (only 2 holes line up):

Here is the 4L30 crossmember:

The mount sits on the crossmember! All I'll have to do is weld a small plate onto the back of the crossmember and drill two holes in it. I'll also drill a hole with a hole-saw in the crossmember to give access to the t-case pan drain. You can see the drain bolt above the crossmember in the photo above.

Here's a view from the bottom:
I'll probably trim the front of the crossmember to in order to have better access to the pan bolts.

Here is how far the t-case sits below the crossmember:

I've test held a driveshaft up front and it clears the 4L30E crossmember

Found this on the rear diff:

OOps!

Anyone want to buy a used 4L30E?

I didn't take a pic but before I installed the tranny I extended the breathers. The t-case breather is a 1/8" BPT fitting so it was easy to thread in a 1/8" NPT elbow and then barb fitting for a hose. The transmission has a plastic barb near the bellhousing so it was replaced too.

Currently the dipstick looks like the hardest problem. It looks to want to go right through the exhaust manifold.

Off to get helicoils, spacers and longer torque converter bolts.

-Tad


TAD TWO THINGS , BEFORE YOU SET THE TRANS DOWN FOR THE FINAL BOLT UP TAKE A CLOSE LOOK AT THE TRANS MOUNT WHERE THE MOUN ITSELF GOES UP INTO THE BRACKET THE UPPER PORTION , THOSE THINGS AR E BAD ABOUT COLLAPSING, I USUALLY WEDGE A PIECE OF 3/4 INCH HEATER HOSE IN BETWEEN THE AREAR WHERE IT IS HITTING THE BRACK AND IT WILL LAST FOR YEARS , ALLSO TAKE A LOOK AT THE DRIVE SHAFT MOUNTING BOLTS FROM THE LOOKS OF THE PIX THEY MAY BE THE RIGHT LENGTH AND THEY ARE SUPER STRONG AND THEY ARE THE RIGHT THRED PITCH, IF THEY WILL WORK LET ME KNOW AND I WILL SEND YOU SOME ,YOU CAN USE YOUR BOLT IN THE CONVERTOR AND I WILL REPLACE THEM FOR YOU , FOR THE DRIVE SHAFT JERRY
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Postby Tad » Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:37 pm

JLEMOND wrote:TAD TWO THINGS , BEFORE YOU SET THE TRANS DOWN FOR THE FINAL BOLT UP TAKE A CLOSE LOOK AT THE TRANS MOUNT WHERE THE MOUN ITSELF GOES UP INTO THE BRACKET THE UPPER PORTION , THOSE THINGS AR E BAD ABOUT COLLAPSING, I USUALLY WEDGE A PIECE OF 3/4 INCH HEATER HOSE IN BETWEEN THE AREAR WHERE IT IS HITTING THE BRACK AND IT WILL LAST FOR YEARS , ALLSO TAKE A LOOK AT THE DRIVE SHAFT MOUNTING BOLTS FROM THE LOOKS OF THE PIX THEY MAY BE THE RIGHT LENGTH AND THEY ARE SUPER STRONG AND THEY ARE THE RIGHT THRED PITCH, IF THEY WILL WORK LET ME KNOW AND I WILL SEND YOU SOME ,YOU CAN USE YOUR BOLT IN THE CONVERTOR AND I WILL REPLACE THEM FOR YOU , FOR THE DRIVE SHAFT JERRY


Thanks for the tips! I was able to find nice bolts, but I'll check on using the driveshaft bolts. I have all 8 from the donor Trooper so I'm not running short. They looked like finer thread but I'll check in the AM.

I also took a pic of the profile of the 4L30E Crossmember under the Aisin:
Image

You can see how the exhaust used to have to clear the transmission but now could run straight.

I did a test fit of the front dust shield. It lines up perfectly including all of the bolt holes.

I'm going to use hardened washers as spacers to get it rolling in the driveway. It isn't a big deal to swap them for real spacers once I find some.

-Tad
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http://www.planetisuzoo.com
2001 Trooper - 4.77s, 3xARB, OME 919HD springs. 255x85 Maxxis Bighorn MTs
1999 Rodeo - rebuilt DD
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Postby trooperbc » Tue Nov 06, 2007 12:47 am

a post in a current thread mentioned your project --

last post: Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 8:37 pm

any news over the last 2 months?


thanks

//bc
1992 trooper 3.2L sohc automatic . . . as is
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Postby Tad » Tue Nov 06, 2007 11:24 am

Well, 2 months sounds long, but 8 week-ends doesn't sound quite so bad.

I have made progress. I've been working on some of the smaller things:

I got the shifting computer from www.awshifting.com (tell Brett that I sent you). I bought a grant steering wheel adaptor and wheel so that I could put shifter buttons on the wheel, then sold the set when I found that they didn't fit the 2nd gen Trooper. Anyone have any great ideas for a paddle shifter? Someone suggested that I test-drive a Ferrari and return it minus the paddles. Somehow I think that they might notice that.

I figured out the dipstick, then bent and mounted it. It was a royal PITA. I may have been more sore after doing that then lifting the transmission up. It was a pain because the 2.6 AW4 dipstick tube is about 3" too short. That means that you can't really access it from the top, and access through the wheel well is difficult at best. I welded a short extension onto the handle, and we'll have to see how well that holds up in use.

I decided on how to mount the transmission throttle position cable. This cable is used to set the line pressure inside the transmission. I've mounted it through the firewall where it will connect to the accelerator pedal under the dash. They should allow fairly easy adjustment too as I have some room to slide it up and down the shaft of the pedal.

I bought the heli-coil that is needed to fix the stripped holes in the frame where the crossmember mounts. $60 for that kit + $12 for a pack of refills. Ouch!

I've also worked some on the shifter mount. I'm going to use the section of floor from the 94 with a section cut and bent up to make a flat spot for the 88 shifter to mount. This will be easy to waterproof and will be pleanty strong enough. After I get the crossmember finished I'll connect the shifter linkage and set the position of the new shifter, and I can make it permanent. BTW the factory shifter is built very tough. It has very heavy brackets that are all welded together and to the floor section that I'll be modifying.

So the big thing that I need to address that has to be done soon is the torque converter. I need to take the time to find a machine shop to make me some hardened spacers. I have hardened washers but I don't like the idea of stacking washers in there. I've seen goofier factory setups on front-wheel drive cars, but I don't want this to fail because of that.

So it does progress. I've had a few time conflicts along the way, like 2 short vacations and 3 work trips. I also picked up a 92 pathfinder to part out (it had the tires and bumper that I wanted) so I did spend more hours on that than I should have.

I also picked up some Indy links that I need to install. I managed to bend one of Joe's reinforced links in Uwharrie. I'm pretty sure that if I bend one of the Indy links I'll be dead. Wait until you see the comparison photos.

I'll have some updated photos soon. Snow is coming and I need that truck back on the road.

-Tad
tad@planetisuzoo.com
http://www.planetisuzoo.com
2001 Trooper - 4.77s, 3xARB, OME 919HD springs. 255x85 Maxxis Bighorn MTs
1999 Rodeo - rebuilt DD
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