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SAS build.....Finally!
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Starchild
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Joined: 14 Oct 2003
Posts: 1408
Location: Fernandina Beach, FL

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I see that you have switched your front spring shackle position. That is a better system for your unit.


Yeah, I think I'll be happier in the long run with this setup.

Quote:
I would try to place your rear spring shackle eye in the frame to flatten out the perch angle.


That's easier said than done on the Isuzu frame. Because of the way the frame is angled in where the shackle needs to be mounted, it makes it tough to drill the frame parallell on both sides. To properly do this, I'd probably have to pull the transmission. I'm going to add shims to the front spring packs to correct the caster and pinion angle.

Quote:
I have also had to reverse the trailing eye on my front springs.


Not sure I follow you here Confused . My YJ springs have a centered pin, rather than an offset pin like the waggy springs.
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GEG
Found The Light


Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Posts: 276
Location: Vancouver, Wa

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have taken the front springs to a spring shop and had them reverse the rear eye. The reversing of he eye raises the rear of the spring about 4 inches. This allowed me to get the right caster angle without shims. I had a Dana shear one of my front spring alignment studs once. I blamed it on too many angle spacers between the axle and the spring. My wife thought it was from the idiot behind the wheel that hit the stump. Reguardless of the cause, I never had another sheared pin after I rebuilt the rig so I did not have to use spacers.
Good luck, GEG
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Starchild
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Location: Fernandina Beach, FL

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally some real progress. I had a friend come over Saturday to help me move the axles under the truck. He ended up getting really into the project, and wouldn't leave till we had tires under the rear.









I'm pretty happy with the height on the rear. This is with the Calmini lift shackles and DOR spring upgrades.

I just need to finish welding on the front cross member, and reinforce the shackle hangers before I put too much weight on the front. I should have most of my steering parts from Indy4x today.
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bigpoppax2
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks awesome! Twisted Evil

Is it just the picture or are you going to need a bit of trimming on the rear fender well?

Joe
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98 RodeoPort 34" LTB's, Supercharged and some other cool stuff.
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Starchild
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Joined: 14 Oct 2003
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Location: Fernandina Beach, FL

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear will need some trimming. Probably just open up the bottom corners of the wheel wells. I don't think I'll take too much off right now, and I'll probably put my 2" bump stop extensions back in. I think they will stuff nicely with a little clearance.
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Bansil
Almost Joe Isuzu


Joined: 17 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
. I think they will stuff nicely with a little clearance.


Well dugh Twisted Evil ,those are swampers,they'll self clearance.


Wink~~~~~~~
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94redrodeo
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 35"s with a SOA and calmini shackles and when I really flex they rub in the rear.

Youe sure you dont want to go higher
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95.5 Rodeo SAS Dana 44 F&R, pro comp mx6 shocks, Custom Winch bumper, 35" Bfg All terrains, 1" body lift, Calmini high flow intake
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Starchild
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Joined: 14 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I have 35"s with a SOA and calmini shackles and when I really flex they rub in the rear.

Youe sure you dont want to go higher


I'm going to add 2" bumpstop extensions to help keep the tire out of the fender. Stability is my main goal. I'd much rather rub the fenders, or cut them to clearance, than go any higher than I have to.


I got the shackle hanger boxed in last night.

The mockup with cardboard


Welded up


I'm pretty sure I'm going to have driveshaft issues. I got Matt's old front driveshaft from his black RS that was made by High Angle Driveline. He was running the same axle and t-case, so I fugured I could just retube it. My problem is clearance to the 700R4 transmission pan, which is offset to the passenger side. Here is the new shaft on top, and my old front shaft below


The HAD shaft uses a Toyota u-joint at the t-case, with a D-300 flange drilled for the Toy pattern. On my old shaft, I was rubbing the pan at the weld just below the upper yoke. You can see how much thicker the toy yoke is. I don't think there is any way that would clear.

The HAD shaft has a huge 10" slip yoke, which needs at least a 2" ID tube for the sip joint to compress.

I'm thinking that the only way this will work is to go with a different yoke at the t-case. The one on my old shaft is the Isuzu front u-joint, which is smaller than a 1310.

It's not my first choice, but the easiest solution would be to use the stock D300 1310 yoke, and swap the yoke from a spare Rodeo rear shaft onto the HAD shaft. I would probably have to get creative and reduce the tube dia. enought to clear the pan, and then enlarge it to clear the slip yoke. Basically create a neck-down just before the yoke.

I didn't expect everything to fit perfectly Rolling Eyes
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I got the driveshaft figured out. I'm just going to have to swap to a 1310 u-joint at the T-case. I'm going to use one of the yokes from middle of a stock Rodeo rear 2-piece driveshaft. I ordered a couple of Super-flex joints from Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts. That should help me get a bit more drop out of the front before the shaft binds up. As soon as those come in, I'll take the shafts in to the driveline shop.

I managed to get the rear axle pretty much wrapped up this weekend. The brake lines are done, and calipers and pads are installed. I've got the shock mounts figured out, I just want to get the exhaust finished up before I attach the mounts. The exhaust is pretty much run, just need to weld up a couple couplers, and fab some hangers.

The front suspension is pretty well finished up. Here's how the front sits




I like the shackle angle I ended up with. By my measurements, the front will sit an inch or two higher than the rear. At least untill the springs break in, and I get my winch and bumper back on.

I also got some clearancing done on the rear.




Inside of the rear of the wheel well


I've got some sheet metal work to do, but probably some duct tape for the time being.

I put the stock radiator brackes back in, and reinstalled the fan and shroud.

I did figure out that my air box lid that I modified for the 3" BL will not fit anymore, so I need to locate a stock one.

It's coming together Cool
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ZuCruTrooper2
Almost Joe Isuzu


Joined: 12 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty sweet stuff!

This should be in the hall of fame; this is a very informative and interesting topic, not to mention wicked-cool.
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Slinky
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JBH1989 wrote:
Pretty sweet stuff!

This should be in the hall of fame; this is a very informative and interesting topic, not to mention wicked-cool.


x2 This is probably the best tread I've ever seen about an Isuzu SAS.

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mdocod
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Joined: 05 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thankyou so much for sharing your progress on this project, this has been really informative and is giving me a lot of ideas for if I ever do the SAS of my dreams (years down the road)..

so.... one of the major issues everyone runs into on the SAS is the front drive shaft... I see it brought up in nearly every SAS build as a problem area that requires some sort of bizarre solution...

what about using a CV driveshaft, instead of a ~3 inch diameter tube, use a axle-style shaft.. I know the jeep guys often run "U-joint eliminator" packages that are basically CVs turning shafts that look more like axle shafts than driveshaft tubes... the result is that they don't have to worry about angle variations (constant velocity joints don't generate the rumble that U-joints that aren't paired in the same angles do)... and they can run steeper angles without issues (look at how steep the front CVs on 1st gen zus get with 3+ inches of crank).
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Quote:
so.... one of the major issues everyone runs into on the SAS is the front drive shaft... I see it brought up in nearly every SAS build as a problem area that requires some sort of bizarre solution...

what about using a CV driveshaft, instead of a ~3 inch diameter tube, use a axle-style shaft.. I know the jeep guys often run "U-joint eliminator" packages that are basically CVs turning shafts that look more like axle shafts than driveshaft tubes... the result is that they don't have to worry about angle variations (constant velocity joints don't generate the rumble that U-joints that aren't paired in the same angles do)... and they can run steeper angles without issues (look at how steep the front CVs on 1st gen zus get with 3+ inches of crank).


The front shaft can be a bit tricky, but even more so in my case. The 700R4 transmission I swapped in has the trans pan offset to the passenger side. This is what is conflicting with the front shaft. A CV joint at the t-case would probably hit the pan even more because of the diameter. Because this is the front shaft, I'm not really worried about vibration. The super-flex joints I'm using are an offset design that allows for a steeper operating angle


http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

While these will help the angle, they will cause vibration at higher speeds. Since I don't plan on using 4wd at any speed, this is a good trade off. I will be installing a limit strap on the front diff to ensure that the shaft will not bind up.

My shaft will end up resembling an axle shaft at the t-case side.
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mdocod
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cool, I think I understand... splined into T-case > carrier bearing > high angle offset U-joint > input flange... sounds good so far as I can tell..
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Bansil
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Since I don't plan on using 4wd at any speed,


SO this means no drag racing on the beaches then,hugh?????????

Darn,It would've made a sweet front page of the daily times Very Happy
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
SO this means no drag racing on the beaches then,hugh?????????


Since when do I need 4wd to drag race Razz



Quote:
cool, I think I understand... splined into T-case > carrier bearing > high angle offset U-joint > input flange


More like T-case>high angle u-joint>slip yoke>huge 1410 u-joint>axle

Although I considered a 2-piece front shaft, I'm not using a carrier bearing, just the yoke from one. I'll go into more detail when I have the shaft made.
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Things are coming along slowly. I finished up the rear shock mounts tonight. It ended up being one of the most anoying things I had to do. I could barely reach the upper mounts, much less get a good angle with the welder and with my mask on. I managed to lay down some of the worst looking beads ever. Aside from my shock measurements being way off, I think they will work.

The exhaust is done except for a couple hangers.

Only one weekend left Shocked

Andre
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zippo
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well then KICK IT THE ARSE AND LETS GO! Laughing Twisted Evil I will send you some PCP, Crack, And some Cuban Special. And there you go you weill have your truck finished stuck pulled out stuck once more, washed waxed and loaded for wuharried in no time at all. Who needs sleep?
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Starchild
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zippo wrote:
Well then KICK IT THE ARSE AND LETS GO! Laughing Twisted Evil I will send you some PCP, Crack, And some Cuban Special. And there you go you weill have your truck finished stuck pulled out stuck once more, washed waxed and loaded for wuharried in no time at all. Who needs sleep?


I need sleep! You can keep all that junk. I'm going to finish the natural way.

Picked up my driveshafts yesterday. The shop did a good job, and used some creative engineering to make it fit my needs.

Here is the front shaft


You can see the need for the reduced diameter with it in place


In order to accomplish this, they ended up using two slip joints. The upper one is welded solid, and only serves to provide the smaller diameter shaft.

The rear shaft is pretty standard, but they both fit. The front sits at about a 30 degree angle at ride height. I should be able to get another 5 degrees of angle before I need to limit drop.

I also got my last package from Indy4x with my steering arms.

Pretty nice


I need to smooth down the top of the knuckles where the arms will sit, and I'll probably get started assembling the steering linkage tonight.
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Smiley
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work, Andre!!!!


Starchild wrote:
...I'll probably get started assembling the steering linkage tonight.

Tick-tock, tick-tock Wink


Cheers!
Smiley
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GenXr
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zippo wrote:
Well then KICK IT THE ARSE AND LETS GO! Laughing Twisted Evil I will send you some PCP, Crack, And some Cuban Special...


Ain't dissin' on ya bro, but that is absolutely the weirdest post I've ever read. If seen lots of offers to help but nothing like this. Shocked Shocked Shocked
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zippo
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL!!!!!! Laughing Laughing Laughing No i don't do any of that carp, because if i do and the person who made it did it wrong i could very easy die, and i couldn't have my mother pic out a casket for me. Evil or Very Mad But Yea sleep and do that stuff normal people do, and i will see you in the GA On the way to URE!
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Slinky
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zippo wrote:
I will send you some PCP, Crack, And some Cuban Special.


With that combo it would probably turn out like this Laughing




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Starchild
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got the steering mocked-up tonight. I installed the knuckles and steering arms, and measured and cut the tube for the tie rod and drag link. Here's how it looks







This setup is pretty much the Indy4x SAS steering kit, with the Hi-steer arms.

Here you can see the stock pitman that Matt re-tapered to a standard TRE from the bottom.



The clearance from the drag link to the tie rod is a bit tight to say the least, but I think it will work out well. I only have a couple inches compression before the tie rod hits the steering shaft, but I never expected to have much Confused
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Dober
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like it's coming along quite nicely. When are you hoping to have it all finished and running? Nice welds btw.
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