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Outer CV Boot Removal

46K views 17 replies 15 participants last post by  Getsducks 
#1 ·
When replacing the outer boot does the whole shaft and both boots need to be removed? What are the steps in removing just the outer boot? I was changing my Ball-Joints and noticed that the outer boot had a couple of tears in it.

Kris.
 
#2 ·
To do it the Isuzu way, yes you will have to replace the inner boot as well.

Here is a howto:
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/?

There are two alternatives now though. Split boots, which I would not recommend can be installed without even disconnecting either end of the CV shaft, and the new Mecatech boots. Those boots can be installed over a complete CV joint. They come with a large funnel that allows you to force the small end of the boot over the large joint in order to install them. Check with Independent4x for current availability of those boots.

-Tad
 
#3 ·
I did this project this weekend. Both of my outer boots were cracked as well.

These two articles were invaluable:

Wheel bearings: http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56
CV boots: http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/

I pulled the shafts completely off the truck to facilitate thorough cleaning and inspection. As mentioned in the article, the outer joint cannot be disassembled.





I think one of the hardest parts was getting the slip clamps tight and in position (not to mention overcoming the 11 years of rust on the lower ball joint and tie rod end I had to replace while I was in there).
 
#6 ·
First off mecatech cv boot kit is the best thing invented since in door plumbing so i highly reconmend these they save a lot time and labor. second you always replace both inner and outer since you have it torn down to do the outer boot, as for taken the half shaft off completely, its up to the person doing the job i did both boots and i left the h/shaft attach to the diff. The mecatech kit comes with a dvd that shows how to use this kit. Good luck on doing the job your self.
 
#8 ·
There is some faulty information on the article regarding the wheel bearing removal.

The part numbers listed for the axle (spindle) nut wrench are not accurate. Parts America (Checkers, Advanced and a few other stores combined) don't carry the part. Napa no longer makes that part. The dealership may have it, but I'm not going to buy it from there. I did, however, go to Auto Zone and I got a wrench there that will work (the modification is required). It is for use on 1986 and newer 4WD Ford Broncos and light trucks with Dana 44 axles. The part number is 33625072. Remember, the warranty is void after you grind down the teeth.

When you grind the teeth down, and grind down the width of the two remaining teeth be sure to leave at least 2mm of material on each tooth.
 
#9 ·
I'm planning on changing the outer boots only this weekend. The inner boots are fine.
If I MUST, I'll change them both.
But, can I do this: while the axles are still on the car?
Is there a circlip holding the outer joint on the axle? If so, can I remove that and then take off the outer joint?
And check this one out:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csENZpH8Gh8&feature=related can I do this with ANY boot? Or is it a the special one mechatech (or something)?
 
#10 ·
hey all. I know this info is a little late, but I just got done replacing the outer boot on the right side of my 01

Basically I did as the 4x4wire tutorial shows, except that I did no damage to the inner boot so that I could reuse it.

Because the inner boot was not damaged I did not clean the inner joint thoroughly, and I did not take the balls out of the cage. I plan to do a little write up of my experience, as I had the foresight to take some pics during the job. As soon I can I will post it up.

It was my first time doing this job on an isuzu and it only took about 3 hours. about 30min of which was just getting the upper balljoint to let go, I finally used my air chisel and that worked great. Another 30 min or so was lost to stopping to take pictures and look for tools. So if I had all the tools out next time, and I bet I could do it in just over an hour.
 
#11 ·
Ok, after reading this thread, I have figured out the best approach-for me. I will separate BOTH ball joints, pull the inner joint apart with balls and cage left ON the halfshaft. On the bench, I will remove the inner joint and boot (which is intact) and replace the outer boot with an EMPI kit (10.49, free shipping, on eBay). Quality, one-piece boot. No need for me to pull balls and cage apart.

Should take about an hour to an hour and a half.

Catdaddy
 
#14 ·
The problem is with the aftermarket axles available. If the boot is not cracked through, just surface damage, replacing the boot is actually pretty easy, quick and cheap. Once the boot is torn...change out the axle. Just be careful about the new one. Reman axles are hit and miss.
I guess for $60-70, if you get 5-6 years out of them...no biggie.
 
#15 ·
crs95 said:
The problem is with the aftermarket axles available. If the boot is not cracked through, just surface damage, replacing the boot is actually pretty easy, quick and cheap. Once the boot is torn...change out the axle.
True dat! Neighbor replaced a torn boot on his Toyota, joint turned to confetti 2 days later.
 
#16 ·
5 years ago my outer CV boots looked like the last two photos.
They never did click though.
Back then I replaced just the rubber boot with blue clam shell boots
that you glue together and fill with CV grease.
The first two photos are how they look today.
 

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#17 ·
cwmoser said:
5 years ago my outer CV boots looked like the last two photos.
They never did click though.
Back then I replaced just the rubber boot with blue clam shell boots
that you glue together and fill with CV grease.
The first two photos are how they look today.
Where'd you get the boots at? Sure looks like they held up...

Thanks!
Andy
 
#18 ·
Whats the best axles to buy today??

I'll take mine apart and inspect and clean if still ok but would like to be looking at new replacements should the old ones be toast.

Still no clicking tho after years of the boots being wide open as above pics.

Thanks as always for any input on this project
 
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