everything is rebuildable, just maybe not to factory specs. look at all of those cars in Cuba that were built in the late 40s and early 50s. they have no access to new parts, but they obviously make them work somehow.
kg4miq wrote:Could/should this be added to the wiki?
DSUZU wrote:Thanks for taking the time to post this. While I don't have any problems with my dizzy right now, I appreciate your efforts to help others. Dennis
kg4miq wrote:Sorry to resurrect the old thread, but I'm in the process of doing this today and thought I'd share.
For the 4ZE1 distributor (and possibly for the 4ZD1 as well, I'll have to check), the internal oil seal in the distributor is a NOK 3286, dimensions are: 12.45mm x 22mm x 6mm. This is the same seal Honda Accords used on the F22B1, F23A1, F23A4, and F23A7 engines, FYI.
Rebuilding these distributors does NOT require disassembly of the crank position sensor (with the potted screws) as someone had mentioned on one of these threads. A bench vise makes rebuilding these distributors so much easier. Clamp the lower shaft gear in the vise to hold the distributor vertically and disassemble from the top down. When you get the cap off, you'll see the thin wafer-like crank position sensor disk. Simply remove the large phillips-head screw in the center of the distributor shaft, and be very careful to not damage or bend the wafer disk as you remove it from the distributor. Underneath the disk you'll see the retainer cover with two screws holding the bearing in place. Under the bearing is the shaft oil seal mentioned above. Turn the distributor on its side and reclamp the cam gear in the vise (below the worm gear teeth - on the smooth portion of the cam gear) with the rolled pin facing up. Now use a punch or allen wrench of about the same size to push the rolled pin out of the cam gear. Once that's done, the cam gear should come off the distributor shaft fairly easily and the shaft should come out of the housing. Reassemble in the reverse order. I'll try and post some pics soon.
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