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Another Pickup LS1 swap

11K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  Honestbroker 
#1 ·
I bought a 1989 extra cab pickup 2WD and a 2000 Camaro SS donor for it's LS1 and 4L60E. Planning to get started on the swap next week. I know it's been done before. I built a Mustang 5.0 powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max 20 years ago. Some things that look good so far are the front steer and the torsion bars, as the Camaro pan is rear sump. Any advice is appreciated. I need a gas tank by the way.

Question, this truck has a disc brake rear end with a drop out 3rd member like a Ford 9inch. How strong is this rear end compared to a Dana 44 from a Rodeo? I used a Rodeo D44 in the Mitsubishi.




I'm in Sacramento.
Brian
 
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#2 ·
If it's the zu 12bolt, it ought to be plenty strong, although it may not have the gear ratio choices you'd want wth the v8. They are mostly 4.56 and 4.30. Dana 44 would have many more options to get you a better cruising rpm if that's important to ya.
 
#3 ·
If it's a 2wd truck stock gear ratio will be 4.10s, most likely an open differential. A LSD is available for the 12-bolt that can be mated to your ring gear & swapped in but no higher gears (like 3.42 or 3.73) were ever made for this rear.
 
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#5 ·
No, 12-bolt refers to the number of bolts holding the ring gear together, internally.
 
#6 ·
If it has disc brakes it's a 12-bolt.
 
#8 ·
I'd give it a bit of an edge over the run of the mill d44s, although the modified 44s from the later model rodeos and more recent JK wranglers might be a bit stronger.
 
#10 ·
The motor mounts are done. Transmission mount is done (for the 4L60E). Bottom radiator mounts done. I made the cross member that goes under the oil pan removable and narrowed it. The Camaro pan is rear sump, but there still would have been interference. Putting the top of the core support back in now, and making it so it can be unbolted. Tight fit for the fans, but they come out easily to get to the accessories. I moved the alternator up top on the passenger side to make room for the power steering box I got from an Amigo, which bolted right in. Otherwise, this pickup was well optioned when new. AC, power windows and locks, cruise control. I intend to have all that functioning and end up significantly under 10lbs/horsepower at the crank.


 
#11 ·
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#12 ·
carwhisperer said:
The motor mounts are done. Transmission mount is done (for the 4L60E). Bottom radiator mounts done. I made the cross member that goes under the oil pan removable and narrowed it. The Camaro pan is rear sump, but there still would have been interference. Putting the top of the core support back in now, and making it so it can be unbolted. Tight fit for the fans, but they come out easily to get to the accessories. I moved the alternator up top on the passenger side to make room for the power steering box I got from an Amigo, which bolted right in. Otherwise, this pickup was well optioned when new. AC, power windows and locks, cruise control. I intend to have all that functioning and end up significantly under 10lbs/horsepower at the crank.


This is great, I am interested to see how this project comes along! Any plans for power adders after she is running?
 
#14 ·
Thank you. No I don't have any plans for power adders maybe a manual trans at some point. But the best option is a T56 which would probably require cutting up the tunnel, so I don't think I'll do that. Apparently a T5 can't live behind an LS1, and a NV3500 is also marginally strong and the ratios aren't that great. I think an NV4500 is also pretty bulky.
 
#15 ·
carwhisperer said:
Thank you. No I don't have any plans for power adders maybe a manual trans at some poisons. But the best option is a T56 which would probably require cutting up the tunnel, so I don't think I'll do that. Apparently a T5 can't live behind an LS1, and a NV3500 is also marginally strong and the ratios aren't that great. I think an NV4500 is also pretty bulky.
A T5 can't live behind a 4.3 Vortec. Stock 5.0 Mustangs(170hp, no traction and light) were popping them at every corner. I have a 5.3 in my Rodeo and used the MUA5. It failed quickly, but that was 100% my fault. I used a bellhousing adapter but didn't use an extended pilot bearing. I was going to just go with a 3500 or 4500 but have ordered a new set of main shaft bearings and am going to give the MUA5 another shot. If I was given the choice to do it all again I'd go with a 4500. It is overkill but I use my Rodeo to tow a lot. A 3500 would probably be perfect. A T56 doesn't tow worth a damn so I never gave it a thought. I needed a low 1st and didn't need two overdrives. One thing about the MUA5 is that it doesn't require any modifications to the tunnel or crossmember. I jacked up the back of my crossmember because I didn't think the LS would clear the steering shaft but I think it will be fine without it.

One option for you that can work is a 200r4. They can be built to handle 800hp and are very small, plus have overdrive. Cheap, too.
 
#16 ·
Thanks. I'm using the 4L60E for now. The whole thing fits pretty nice. I have my AC compressor in the stock Camaro location, but I moved the alternator between the throttle body and passenger cylinder head. To get the motor to sit a little lower, I am planning to notch the holes in the idler arm bracket. The clearance between that and the AC compressor is my limiting factor currently. I was wondering what would happen if I cut the top off the idler arm? There appears to be a dust cap welded on the top of the bracket. Does the shaft go up into this space or does it need to do so? I guess I could buy a spare and cut it up.

Do you have a build thread for your swap? I did see an LS Rodeo swap. I think it was done in Australia. Was that you?

I do have access to the stock 5 speed that was in my truck. I think the truck had a 2.6 and it is 2WD. Would that be an MUA5? I'm not a big fan of engine adapters, though. Seems too tricky to get everything right, as demonstrated by your pilot bearing issue.
 
#17 ·
I don't have a build thread but I may put one together when I reinstall everything. I don't know what came with the 2.6, I'm not well informed on Isuzus. I can't find a heavy duty clutch for mine. As for the adapter, its pretty straight forward and cheap. Speedway Motors sells it. It bolts up, no problems and isn't tricky. Technically its designed to mate a 60* Chevy V6 engine to a 90* Chevy V8 transmission. I used the stock Rodeo clutch disc with an LS pressure plate. If you do it all yourself you can build it for $1000 or so. Engine, adapter, pressure plate, pilot bearing, mounts and a few odds such as the radiator hoses and fuel lines. I kept the stock radiator but it'll probably get swapped. Just make sure and get the stuff out of trucks without throttle by wire. You can make it work, its just a pain in the ***. And wifi throttles ALWAYS have a dead spot that drive me nuts, especially towing or off road.

If someone came up with an ignition system for a Northstar it would open up a whole new world for us. The engines bolt up to the stock transmissions. The holdups are flywheels(they never made a manual Northstar), ignition and fuel. The fuel can be solved with any aftermarket EFI and a flywheel can probably be used off of a V6 Camaro or something but there is no ignition system that can work. You could probably figure out a way to adapt an old Optispark to it if you spent the time on it.
 
#18 ·
No real pictures but I thought I'd write an update.

I cut the top off the steering idler arm and found a thrust spring under the cap. I shortened the spring and the cap and welded it back on. Seems to operate the same as before. This gave me another 3/4 inch that I could lower the engine. I bought some LS swap engine mounts from an ebay seller and redid the pedestals. I now clear the trans tunnel everywhere by 1/2 inch or more.

I sound the Camaro shifter down in the hole for the manual trans shifter the truck had. I used a longer shifter cable from a GM FWD car. The stock boot fits over the shifter. In park, the shifter touches the stereo. This was the best I could do without hacking up the center console.

Throttle cable is done. I got one from a V6 rodeo and adapted it to the Camaro throttle body.

I got my reworked LS1 wiring harness and modded ECU back from the ebay seller. I put it on and it fits pretty well.

I wired the starter, using the clutch switch wires from the pickup to go through the Camaro PNP switch. Truck makes noise when you turn the key!

I put in a fuel tank from a Nissan Hardbody and a Walbro 255 lph pump. I couldn't find an Isuzu tank. This tank fits approximately the same way, but obviously some fabrication was required.

Radiator is mounted. AC lines are mocked up.

I am hoping I will start the truck any day now, although there is no exhaust beyond the manifolds at this point. I am planning to take the truck into a shop to have the exhaust made. I have always made my own exhaust for swaps in the past, but this time I'm giving in. Besides the exhaust and wiring harness/ECU, I will have done everything else myself.

I'll post back when/if I get it started!
 
#24 ·
Exhaust is done. I flat towed it over to a shop an hour away on Saturday. The guy showed up 90 minutes late, confirming my fear of having other people work for me. He did a good job, though, for a fair price, $400, including the Flow Disaster mufflers. When I got home I drove it up into the garage under it's own power. I am working on the AC lines right now. Then it's gauges and clean up the wiring and that's about all I think.
 
#25 ·
This thing is gonna fly!
 
#26 ·
I used the truck for an actual purpose the other day. I drove it to work then to an appointment after work for a total of 50 miles. Two breakdowns. An old fuse cracked. Not blew, but cracked. Then a fuel line popped off by the gas tank. It also does a weird thing where it won't start some times. Probably not getting fuel for some reason. But it will roast the rear tires (OK, one rear tire, open dif), sounds awesome, AC works great, power steering is good. Still a lot of little things to do. For example, the cruise control doesn't work, the back end is still stuck up in the air, and the late model steering wheel is crooked going down the road. I ordered some new 17x8 wheels with +19 offset. I plan to put on some 255 40 17's in the rear. Maybe 265.

 
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