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SUPER FLEXY IFS KIT

77K views 281 replies 75 participants last post by  matthewvillion 
#1 ·
I have designed, fabricated, tested and patented a new set of parts that allow IFS to articulate in ways that were not possible before.

The parts attach to the OEM locations and require no drilling to install.

The design is such that the two torsion bars are now semi-connected and interact with each other...

The SUPER FLEXY IFS KIT allows one tire to be at FULL COMPRESSION while the other tire is at FULL DROOP, AND more importantly while the tires are in these extreem positions, the weight is ballanced between the two tires MUCH MORE evenly, and the vehical remains much more level, while increasing traction....Typical OEM syle IFS does not allow this as much.

Also, as one front tire climes an obstical and compresses that side of the suspension, the KIT transfers force to the other front tire, pushing it downward...
This does a few things...First, the tire climing the obstical has its spring rate decreased, allowing it to stuff farther and easier and sooner up into the wheelweell untill it reaches maximum compression (bump stop)... at the same time, the tire on the opposite side has its spring rate increased, pushing it down into the terrain...

For example, With this Kit, You can drop one front tire into a 4" deep rut while the other front tire is sitting on a 4" tall rock, and maintain EQUAL tire preasure on both fronts, and maintain a more level vehical as well.

Included is a SECUREMENT PIN that allows the KIT and the susension to function as per OEM design with the PIN installed (for on road use)...Remove the pin for off road use and MUCH MORE ARTICULATION.

Here are a few pictures.









The last pic is of the parts istalled on a crossmember.
 
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#2 ·
I love this idea, any idea as to what generations or model it fits? Obviously the VX, and I would suppose 2nd gen troopers.

How long does it take for install, what is involved?

How many miles have you put on it on and offroad for wear and extra strain on the vehicle for long term durability?
 
#4 ·
I guess I dont understand exactly what is going on here. Are the bars actually moving? Can you try to explain what is going on a little more. some pictures of it in action meaning while its flexed and at stock location would help. that flex on that vx looks awesome. us rack and pinion guys would have to work something out but I think that is pretty easy in retrospect.
 
#6 ·
MOUNTAINEERISUZU1 said:
I guess I dont understand exactly what is going on here. Are the bars actually moving? Can you try to explain what is going on a little more. some pictures of it in action meaning while its flexed and at stock location would help. that flex on that vx looks awesome. us rack and pinion guys would have to work something out but I think that is pretty easy in retrospect.
With the lock pin removed the T-bars push on each other instead of the frame.
When you roll over a boulder in the trail with your FR tire in a stock IFS set up it pushes against the cross member & forces the rig to tilt to the left.
With the lock pin removed this mod transfers the upward force of the FR t-bar into downward force on the FL T-bar.
Which helps give instant lift to the FL side, maintaining neutral body roll, & increased traction while climbing the obstacle (the boulder).

So long as you have your bump stops set right this is potentially better then a SAS.

I LOVE it!
x2 on the durability question
The pin seems kinda skinny to be anchoring both T-bars, any wear-n-tear on it from road driving yet?
Does it truly fit all Isuzu T-bar cross members without modification?
How much shipped?

~psguardian
 
#7 ·
im very interested in price also....discount for zoo members :D
do you actually drive(off road) your vx with those tires?

this and a wide track swap seems like it may hold off my sas dreams for a while...
 
#8 ·
I see whats going on now. I was also concerned about the pin diameter. I would expect to see something in the 1/2 in range but if it works and is durable then great.

x2 on cost. I am working on a steering mod for the r and p allowing more articulation without binding so this would be a great addition.

keep the info coming
 
#12 ·
will it work on my passport if so how much money for it
 
#13 ·
BigMeat really needs to stop dropping by to promote a new product & the disappearing for a week while the frenzy builds... Hang out & answer some damn questions. Don't just hang the carrot & walk away.

~psguardian
 
#15 ·
The securement pin diameter is 1/2"...I guess it does look kinda skinny next to the other beefy parts. The steel is 3/4" thick.

The torsion bar keys (spline dia./count) are slighty different from year to year and for certain isuzu models...But, I have them in stock...It SHOULD fit a Gen 1 Trooper...I will verify this for sure, soon. Some Rodeos have a removeable drop out crossmember, however the overall torsion bar design is the same...

psguardian....thanks for the detailed explaination...very helpfull.

As far as the durability, I have had it installed on my Daliy driver for almost for over 5 months(with the pin removed)....I have jumped, bottomed out, bounced, cornered on two wheels with this kit installed...with ZERO issues...
There are greasable zerk fittings at all the wear points on the kit...And there is no movement or wear while the PIN is installed (on road use)

It takes between 1-3 hrs to install, depending on your tools, skills, and how rusty/dirty the underside of your isuzu is. :roll:
NO DRILLING REQUIRED.

Cost is $299 + shipping...About 35 lbs. or approx $48 for UPS in USA

Yes, I wheel the VX VERY hard...quite often...
 
#18 ·
BigMeatVX said:
Yes, I wheel the VX VERY hard...quite often...
This, I can verify...though I haven't seen him with the kit installed yet.
 
#19 ·
BigMeatVX said:
The securement pin diameter is 1/2"...I guess it does look kinda skinny next to the other beefy parts. The steel is 3/4" thick.

The torsion bar keys (spline dia./count) are slighty different from year to year and for certain isuzu models...But, I have them in stock...It SHOULD fit a Gen 1 Trooper...I will verify this for sure, soon. Some Rodeos have a removeable drop out crossmember, however the overall torsion bar design is the same...

psguardian....thanks for the detailed explaination...very helpfull.

As far as the durability, I have had it installed on my Daliy driver for almost for over 5 months(with the pin removed)....I have jumped, bottomed out, bounced, cornered on two wheels with this kit installed...with ZERO issues...
There are greasable zerk fittings at all the wear points on the kit...And there is no movement or wear while the PIN is installed (on road use)

It takes between 1-3 hrs to install, depending on your tools, skills, and how rusty/dirty the underside of your isuzu is. :roll:
NO DRILLING REQUIRED.

Cost is $299 + shipping...About 35 lbs. or approx $48 for UPS in USA

Yes, I wheel the VX VERY hard...quite often...
how much to ship to australia?
 
#21 ·
Very interesting.
I have a few questions.
1)how much wear has the crossmember taken,as the t-bar adjusters rotate on it.
2)how much or how quick is the front body roll,since it has very little resistance with pin removed?
3)very cool thinking outside the box.

And as for the rack/pinion durabiliity,mountainair joed has solved it and so did I,its verry simple and costs nothing.and I truly believe tha way we beat on the trucks racing,it works.
 
#22 ·
BigMeatVX said:
I have designed, fabricated, tested and patented a new set of parts that allow IFS to articulate in ways that were not possible before.....
What is your patent number?

~psguardian
 
#23 ·
dman4486 said:
couple of questions:

will this kit work on the gen 1.5 passodeos?(wide track)

is it recommended to use something "load balancing" with the stock rate torsion tubes or would you go to the High rate tubes?
The wide track doesn't matter, the t-bars are the same distance apart from each other. The main difference I've seen between the Zu's as far as the T-bars are concerned is a different spline on some and diameter. The 1st gen Rodeo and 2nd gen Troop/VX's Tbars are the same distance apart. I remember Tad and Andre (Starchild) learning this when he did his Dana 300 swap (tcase was touching the tbars in the 1st gen Rodeo so Tad checked his trooper to see if there would be more room for him later on, there wasn't). Glad to see you finally got this together Alan, awesome work and thanks for putting the time in on it. PSguardian, the only thing I can think of that a solid axle would have over this setup would be total flex, we are limited by our control arms bottoming out on full droop that and the CV angles would limit us (for now until we get some better ones or a long travel IFS kit set-up). Also to bring over from his VX board post, to take full advantage of this mod you'd want low profile bump stops on top AND bottom up front, a ball joint flip and spacer is another +
 
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#24 ·
RamAirZ said:
.....PSguardian, the only thing I can think of that a solid axle would have over this setup would be total flex, we are limited by our control arms bottoming out on full droop that and the CV angles would limit us (for now until we get some better ones or a long travel IFS kit set-up).....
Running on the assumption that this fits 1st Gen Troopers (need confirmation on this), If/when you find a resolution to our CV issue, all we would need is to set diff drop to put pumpkin @ dead center of new CV/control arm travel and install this. For added fun do the sway bar mod that puts a lock pin in the middle of it, pull two pins and the only limiters would be the pump stops.

~psguardian
 
#25 ·
yup, that's the main goal. Depending on how much lift you have will depend on how much diff drop you'd need, and I've been looking at cutting out the lower control arm a bit to allow more downward clearance for the CV;s.
 
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